1src Forums - Let's build "TH55 Spareparts Center" Here

DanT

03-26-2005, 11:58 AM

Since Sony quit making Clie, our warranties are mostly expired, and Sony will charge a flat fee of about $150 to repair TH55 here in US, we may resort to "do it yourself", or find a 3rd party repair shops. I figure if we can put together a sparepart center in this thread where all of TH55 diehard users can come to find links to websites that sell TH55 hardware, it will be a super convenient place to go. :D

Repair shops/contacts:
Chris Short (http://www.theinquirer.net/?article=28522)
PDAParts.com (http://www.gethightech.com/)
RunPDA (http://www.runpda.com/)

If you insist on getting your TH55 repaired by Sony and have brand-new part replacements, call Sony CLIE support line at 1-877-760-7669 for repair assistance or email them to:SONYSVCSOCAL@AM.SONY.COM
Service website: http://eservice.sony.com/webrma/web/index.do

Excluding eBay, and in addition to the repair shops/contacts above, TH55 online spareparts sources that I know of are:
1. Sony (http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/web/index.jsp) for:
a. Flipcover & hinges assembly, parts # X39542352
b. Screw (+) below IR lens, parts # 309130301
c. Screw (Y) for battery cover, parts # 309156701
d. Screw (Y) for HotSync (bottom case), parts # 308791631
e. LCD assembly, parts # A6072074A
f. MC4VH21 Camera module, parts # 180554011
g. Li-Ion Battery, parts # 175644611
h. Battery cover, parts # 308974201
i. MemoryStick cover, parts # 308974401
j. MemoryStick cover screw, parts # 309130201
2. Other OEM parts stores besides Sony:
a. TigerDirect (http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/Model/Sony/Sony/PEGTH55.aspx)
b. Partstore (http://www.partstore.com/Model/Sony/Sony/PEGTH55.aspx)
3. Third party parts stores:
a. Laptop for Less (http://store.l-f-l.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?pg=prod&ref=UP503759-NR70TH) for Battery
b. Brando (http://shop.brando.com.hk/clieth.php) for stylus.
c. PC-Mobile (http://pc-mobile.net/connectors.htm) for connector (T-series plug)

Or I can check out my TH55 junkyard (see Figure 11, below ;)). I think I get most of the parts, except for LCDs. For that, Sony is where you need to go.

Do it yourself procedures:
1. Replacing the battery: This is pretty straight forward. First, open the battery cover on the back lower-left corner with tri-no.1 screwdriver, unplug the power cord (black & red with white connector off the motherboard, pull out the old battery. Second, reverse the procedure with new battery. marcinm123 wrote a very detail procedure complete with pictures in this TH55 Battery Replacement (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?p=971237&posted=1#post971237) thread.
Caution: Read this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85305) first, also this one (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?p=913486#post913486) and this too (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122640).
2. Opening the case and swapping motherboard - see my post # 14 of this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?p=908078#post908078).

Specifications:
Connector pinouts (http://www.leggnet.com/clie/NX70body2.pdf)

Please post other websites that you know of. Let's build our database here.

I took pictures of TH55 parts so we can use them as references, below.
L means Left side of the picture
R means Right side of the picture

Figure 1 (below): TH55 top of motherboard, below LCD assembly
8 ribbon cables connecting to motherboard:
Top L-R: 4 Hard Buttons (L), Earphone jack/IR/Left/JogDial/Right/Back buttons (R)
Middle L-R: Back light (narrow, L), LCD (wide, L), Camera (R), Jogdial (R)
Bottom L-R: Digitizer (L), MemoryStick (Middle)
All ribbon cables have either flip or sliding connector locks, except Jogdial
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_Motherboard.jpg

Figure 2 (below): Disassembled TH55
Top L-R: Stylus, LCD assembly, back of motherboard, bottom case
Center: Hard button assembly
Botom L-R: Battery, battery cover, top case & frame assembly
Inside top case & frame assemby: screws, IR lens, camera module
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Disassembled_TH55.JPG

Figure 3 (below): Screws to put TH55 together
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_screws1.jpg

Figure 4 (below): LCD Assembly 1, Broken LCD (left) below good glass/digitizer (right)
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949LCD_digitizer.JPG

Figure 5 (below): LCD Assembly 2: Back light panel, below LCD and above mirror
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Backlight.JPG

Figure 6 (below): Hard button assemby
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_buttons_assembly.jpg

Figure 7 (below): Jodial assembly & MS reader
Top L-R: IR, BACK button, Right button, Jogdial, Left button, Earphone Jack
Bottom: MemoryStick reader
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Jogdial_MS.JPG

Figure 8 (below): Camera Module & mounting screw
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_camera_module.JPG

Figure 9 (below): Bluetooth chip in TH55/E vs no Bluetooth chip in TH55/U
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949BT_chip.JPG

Figure 10 (below): Camera Capture button
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Capture_button.JPG

Figure 11 (below): My spareparts ;)
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949My_TH55s.JPG

snook_cs

03-27-2005, 07:04 PM

This is a great idea DanT.

This thread should be a permanent fixture.

.
.
.

.

fssia

03-27-2005, 09:40 PM

Great idea, DanT! Actually I would say why not a "Clie Spareparts Centre" since I also have a SJ30 & SJ33 besides TH55. :p

Reminds me of the storyline of "Robots". DanT, u r like Rodney in Robots! ;)

DanT

03-28-2005, 06:48 AM

Thanks for your comments, snook_cs and fssia. I tried to change the title, but it won't do it. :(

Let's start populating this thread with your spare parts list then.

Tam Hanna

03-28-2005, 07:02 AM

www.gethightech.com seems to have a few CLIE spares!

DanT

03-28-2005, 08:16 AM

Ah, I forgot about that PDAparts.com. Thanks, Tam Hanna. I bought glass/digitizer for N760C from them. They even have complete screen (LCD & digitizer) for S, N, T (including T-665, you see that Tanker Bob?) SJ, TJ. However, no TH55 parts is available in there, yet. :(

fssia

03-28-2005, 07:12 PM

@DanT: no spareparts with me now. :(

The most important spareparts I would like to have:
1. Tri-bladed/ Y-screw driver (for replacing TH battery)
2. Batteries for SJ30, SJ33 & TH55
3. Screen protectors
4. Tungsten E styli (prefer them to Clies' own)
5. Flip covers for SJ33 & TH55 (not sure if I really need them)

Glass/digitizer? Does Clies use glass/digitizers? So that means if we drop our Clies, the digitizer may be shattered?! And is that why Clies don't have screen whine? Ok, I will need to know where to get that too.

U know what? Since I'm not an engineer or a person that know how to mess with soldering and so on, I would prefer a repair service when my Clies have major parts to be replaced. Know any company doing that for Clies? :p

DanT

03-28-2005, 07:44 PM

You can get the tri-bladed screw driver from Brando (http://shop.brando.com.hk/trino1screwdriver.php), as mentioned by AVTH55 and cktlcmd in this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?p=795283#post795283). I believe they are in Hong Kong, or spend a little more to get it and flipcover from Global Source (http://www.glblsrc.com/shop/home.php?cat=262).

All PDA have glass/digitizer. Just don't drop it or sit on it. It will break. It can also get scratched if you don't use screen protector. Whine is not caused by glass/digitizer. Check the link provided by Tan Hanna (post # 5) for glass/digitizer, LCD. You can also compare battery price between PDAparts (gethitech) and Laptop for Less.

As far as replacing LCD or backlight or glass/digitizer, you don't need any soldering, just a steady hand, good eyes, and the right tools for the job. However if you want to let the professional do it, contact Don Lee at Run PDA (http://www.runpda.com/). He is in Taiwan. A couple years ago I upgrade my N760C 8MB to 32MB RAM. He also does the glass/digitizer, LCD, and battery replacement. Very good guy to work with. Tanker Bob has his T665 upgraded to 32MB RAM and its battery replaced by Don too. I sent Don an email this morning about whether he can upgrade TH55 RAM from 32MB to 128MB or higher similar to what he has done on Toshiba E310. Still waiting for his answer.

fssia

03-28-2005, 09:15 PM

@DanT: My friend is getting a tri-bladed screwdriver from Brando for me. I was hoping Brando also do replacement batteries for SJ & TH series but they don't. Sigh. :(

Yeah, I was thinking of Run PDA actually but just couldn't remember the name. I guess that's my best option. Come to think of it, I will write to him and enquire abt the price of replacing my SJ30 battery. I won't bother upgrading the RAM since I've a spare 2x128 Purple MS & I'll only be using SJ30 to test new apps.

The shipping cost of Laptop for Less is a bit steep. I've yet to check out PDAparts. I've to take internation shipping into considerations. I know Laptop for Less ship to Brunei, so that's ok. Just price too steep. I'll check with Run PDA and see how much will it cost for them to post me a replacement battery. I'm sure I can replace the SJ30 battery on my own.

Btw, I would love to hear the feedback on upgrading TH55 RAM from 32MB to 128MB. I wouldn't mind if it's just upgrading to 64MB. Man, we're greedy or what?

fssia

03-28-2005, 09:18 PM

@DanT: Abt glass/digitizer, over at the thread abt T|E2, someone is saying that T|E has plastic digitizer, thus the screen whine. But u just said all PDA has glass digitizers, so who is right? :confused:

DanT

03-28-2005, 09:53 PM

With the technology advancing so rapidly, there is certrainly a good possibility that some newer PDAs use plastic instead of glass. So I could be wrong. I would certainly like to see the materials of construction spec for T|E2.

fssia

03-29-2005, 12:11 AM

Oh no, either I misunderstood what you said post #11 or you misunderstood what I said in post #10. It's said that P1 Tungsten E is using plastic/ digitizer & thus the screen whine. Not sure abt what kind of digitizer is Tungsten E2 made of.

It's mentioned that plastic one is used, so that the cost can be lowered, thus T|E was so "cheap". I dunno how true is that.

Tam Hanna

03-29-2005, 05:34 AM

Tungsten E styli can be purchased anywhere, just as info....

fssia

03-29-2005, 07:10 PM

Tungsten E styli can be purchased anywhere, just as info....It can't be purchased anywhere over here in Brunei. :(

zubenal

03-29-2005, 07:57 PM

Why is it that spare parts are not of the same quality as the originals?

DanT

03-29-2005, 08:33 PM

Which spare parts are you talking about?

fssia

03-29-2005, 08:41 PM

May be it's cuz spareparts are not made by Sony or their sub-contractors? ;)

DanT

03-31-2005, 08:22 PM

Update! If anyone needs battery and cheap (4.6 BP + 4BP shipping), check out this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83950). I'm going to order 2 of them. :D

fssia

04-01-2005, 08:46 PM

Is that the site in HK where u recently ordered batteries for TH55?

DanT

04-01-2005, 10:46 PM

Yes. It is.

Now, if I can find the source of TH55 LCD, I can start buying those broken TH55s from ebay, fix them and sell them back on ebay. I did this on a couple N760Cs.

zubenal

04-02-2005, 12:42 PM

Which spare parts are you talking about?

I cant find a decent stylus. I also cant find a original flip cover. I can find some that look kind of like the original, but I have not seen anything that is identical to the original flip cover.

DanT

04-02-2005, 01:17 PM

JAmerican

04-02-2005, 02:08 PM

For original flip cover, your best source is Sony, if you are willing to spend $55.52 + shipping. Check out IsLNdbOi's post #4 of this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82648&page=1&pp=15&highlight=th55+flip+cover). He provides the link to Sony parts & accessories website:

http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/

Do a search for Part or Accessory Number: X-3954-235-2

Hey DanT, I have a Broken UX40, do you know where I can get it repaired? It works, but it cannot charge and the speaker is messed up.

Also, did you get word from RunPDA owner about if you could upgrade your RAM? That would be cool. How much would that cost?

JAmerican

DanT

04-02-2005, 02:34 PM

JAmerican

04-02-2005, 03:30 PM

Did you replace the battery? Have you sent it to Sony for estimate? Unfortunately, I don't know any other repair shop. That is why I started this thread, to let other members post what and whom they know.

Don Lee of RunPDA has been quiet. I guess he does not know how to do it with Sony Handheld Engine CPU, yet.

Haven't sent it to Sony due to they might charge me a lot for service charge and I've paid a lot already to get another device and all. Trying to find a cheaper way to repair it.

JAmerican

DanT

04-02-2005, 04:15 PM

JAmerican

04-02-2005, 06:18 PM

If it would not charge, I would check the charging contact pinout condition. If they look good ( no corrosion or discoloration), then just replace the battery. Those Li-Ion battery, after more than a year of use, may be bad. They are cheap now anyway. You can get one for $10 from this ebay seller (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=75435&item=5763891276&rd=1).

I changed the battery with my UX50 one and it still didn't charge. I was even able to charge my UX40's battery with my UX50. I bought a motherboard from a member who bought a broken CLIÉ. The screen was broken off. The guy said the inside should work but it didn't. I'm gonna try the motherboard again. But the first time I tried it, it didn't work. I placed the original motherboard back in and it worked again but didn't charge. Do you know where you could purchase motherboards for CLIÉ?

JAmerican

DanT

04-02-2005, 06:40 PM

Wow though problem there. I wish I knew where to get CLIE motherboards other than Sony. Hopefully someone else here knows where to find one.

JAmerican

04-02-2005, 07:53 PM

Thanks DanT for the help. Looks like SONY is my only option. Do you think they will repair it all for 138?

JAmerican

DanT

04-02-2005, 09:01 PM

You can only hope so. That is the flat charge I heard for TH55 LCD repair. I would think LCD is the most expensive parts of the unit. I haven't have mine done outside the warranty, so I don't know. You can always ask them ahead of time and get a firm commitment on the cost. They are certainly aware of the going prize of these units. Higher repair cost would discourage people from repairing the units.

fssia

04-03-2005, 09:26 PM

@DanT: You got the batteries you bought from Hong Kong? Are they brand news?

I've been busy, so I have not written to RunPDA or checked out the link you provided.

DanT

04-03-2005, 10:15 PM

It's only 3 days ago (last Thursday) that I ordered the batteries. It may take at least a week to go half around the world. Hopefully by the end of this week (4/9/05). I'll let you know when I got them.

RunPDA replied my email and said they do not and have no plan to work on TH55 RAM upgrade.

Changing battery is a pretty straight forward job. Ezipda, the Hong Kong battery supplier, has sent me a pdf procedure for an NX. I have done it myself on my N760C w/o any problem. The TH55 would be even easier since it has the battery door.

fssia

04-04-2005, 03:46 AM

Why wouldn't RunPDA work on TH55 RAM upgrade? They see no market in it? Sigh...I hope they'll reconsider this.

Does Ezipda do TH55 batteries? I don't see any on their eBay store. But they do have SJ30 batteries. I will need to compare prices of the batteries and shipping fee.

Thanx again, DanT!

DanT

04-04-2005, 06:25 AM

fssia

04-04-2005, 08:10 PM

DanT

04-04-2005, 10:29 PM

No problemo.

Here is a source of clear flip cover with 3-bladed screwdriver listed at eBay Store: WongCheungKee (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=64369&item=5764945660)

DanT

04-13-2005, 07:20 PM

@DanT: You got the batteries you bought from Hong Kong? Are they brand news?...

Received them 2 days ago. They look brand new to me and include 1 year warranty.

BTW, the Brando tri-wing screw driver (PENGFA 2.0x50, blue handle with red swivel end) works great for removing the battery cover and flipcover.

fssia

04-14-2005, 01:35 AM

Received them 2 days ago. They look brand new to me and include 1 year warranty.

BTW, the Brando tri-wing screw driver (PENGFA 2.0x50, blue handle with red swivel end) works great for removing the battery cover and flipcover.I just got my tri-wing/ tri-blade screw driver from Brando and sure enough all the 3 screws were not tightened completely! Thanx to Christian & DanT, I had them coated with clear nail polish to prevent any tragedy of lost screws. :mad:

I've been so busy, I completely forgot abt buying batteries for my SJ30. And I've yet to write to RunPDA. :(

Rossi01

04-14-2005, 02:38 PM

Recommended accessory. A couple times I forgot to charge my TH before a travel and had to save power by not listening to music, not using Wi-Fi, etc. Now this little device is always in my briefcase. :cool:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ssPageName=WDVW

The seller was a very good guy to deal with.

DanT

04-14-2005, 03:18 PM

Rossi01

04-14-2005, 05:49 PM

I could'nt open the link. What is it? 4AA battery extender?

That's correct.

Got the info on this thread.

http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83998

It was working a couple days ago. Maybe a system glitch?

DanT

04-14-2005, 07:24 PM

DanT

04-14-2005, 08:22 PM

@DanT: My friend is getting a tri-bladed screwdriver from Brando for me. I was hoping Brando also do replacement batteries for SJ & TH series but they don't. Sigh. :(...

Here is the procedure for replacing TH55 battery, courtesy of Laptop for Less:

http://www.cliebattery.com/csk-003install.html

A piece of cake! No need to send it out. If I can do it, anyone certainly can. ;)

Rossi01

04-15-2005, 12:20 AM

That's pretty handy for travel. I plan to do a week of camping & hiking. I made one myself.

You can get the 4AA case from RadioShack and the connector from pc-mobile.net (http://pc-mobile.net/connectors.htm). You end up spending about the same amount of money as those battery extenders sold in ebay (about $10), but you have fun doing it. ;)

Nice job! The one I got is quite nice. Even has a switch and an LED to show it's on.

The only remark is that I'm not sure I'd take mine in a camping trip. Maybe if inside one of those waterproof/shockproof cases...
:rolleyes:

http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/storm/

Cheers!

fssia

04-18-2005, 01:00 AM

DanT

04-18-2005, 09:18 PM

You welcome, fssia. I'm not into Games, especially the one that cost $20. It sounds interesting though.

fssia

04-19-2005, 01:16 AM

It's ok. I just thought of sharing it with you. It's very addictive, so it's not such a good idea to look into it if you're busy with your work & life now. ;)

amitvirmani

04-19-2005, 01:41 PM

Where can I get screws for TH55, I saw one missing. I am a bit worried. I do have the tri-blade screw driver.

DanT

04-19-2005, 05:35 PM

Call Sony CLIE support line at 1-877-760-7669 for repair assistance or email them (SonyDAPC@am.sony.com) and explain what happened. They probably mail the replacement screw(s) to you. I have not done it myself, but you have nothing to lose for trying. Please post your outcomes here.

DanT

04-19-2005, 10:03 PM

Here is the procedure for replacing TH55 battery, courtesy of Laptop for Less:

http://www.cliebattery.com/csk-003install.html

A piece of cake! No need to send it out. If I can do it, anyone certainly can. ;)

I take this piece of cake statement back after reading this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85305). FormerlyKnownAs brought an excellent point about not yanking the battery out the door if it is sticking. The case should be taken apart if that happens.

fssia

04-19-2005, 10:29 PM

DanT, thanx for highlighting this to us.

amitvirmani, pls feedback here so we will know what to do next time one of us lose a screw from our TH55. Thx. ;)

DanT

04-26-2005, 07:39 PM

For those who like to do it yourself project such as making your own 4AA battery extender, here is the link to Clie pinout specification. Copy this pdf page to your computer while it is still available online.

http://www.leggnet.com/clie/NX70body2.pdf

fssia

04-29-2005, 08:18 PM

Thanx DanT. Am doing just that now. It's always best to keep the info somewhere in case when u do need it, it's gone with the wind! I've experienced that many times in life. :(

Smurphy

05-23-2005, 11:04 AM

THX-1138

05-23-2005, 11:57 AM

OK, this is what happens when I read these forums. I have read about the missing screws some months back and ever since I checked my TH55 for missing screws every week or so. Today I read this thread and just bothered to look at my TH55 having a lost screw below the IR! Nothing is bad, it works but it bothers to see something missing from this unique unit! So I went ahead and Emailed Sony and called them as suggested by DanT (Thank you!).

Here is how it works, if it is still under the 1yr warranty there should be no problem:

- Called the 877 number for Sony (USA) and chose to speak with a rep.

- Informed the rep. about my finding of lost screw(s) on my TH55

- They asked my Tele. #, complete name and Email Address

- They also asked when and where did I purchased the TH55

- They gave me two options :

A- You send them your unit for repair

B- They send you the replacement part (new screw(s))

I told the rep. that I can't be without this device, I use it each day. The rep. then told me to fax a copy of my proof of purchase (your receipt for the TH55) and after 72hrs of processing time to call back so they can arrange the delivery of the replacement part(s) (screws).

So there you go for those who don't know. Will let you know when I get them.

fssia

05-23-2005, 08:24 PM

THX, thanks for the info. Did you asked how much will they charge for the new screws if your warranty period is over?

I wonder how can I get the screws in Brunei? Call Sony S'pore? May be I should look for them in the hardware stores first. :p ;)

JAmerican

05-23-2005, 08:32 PM

Trust me guys, those battery packs WORK!!!!!!! :) I got 7+ hours using WiFi on my UX using 2050mah batteries x4 @ 1.2v each.

JAmerican

DanT

05-23-2005, 10:17 PM

Has anyone had troubles with "sticky" buttons? Button No. 3 is permanently stuck in the down position, and causes the TH55 to flip from screen to screen in CO. While amusing, this renders the unit worthless. Any ideas on how to open it up and fix this?

Fortunately not, in all of my TH55s (3) and this is the first time I heard about "sticky buttons". If you haven't spilled a coke on it before, it is more likely due to fatique of the metal foil from too much usage.

It is easy to fix it. Just get a broken TH55 from ebay (I got one recently for $60) and replace the button assembly (see the picture below).

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_buttons_assembly.jpg

Smurphy

05-24-2005, 08:29 AM

Thanks, I'm off to eBay.

THX-1138

05-28-2005, 10:42 PM

strider_mt2k

05-29-2005, 10:05 AM

If I can find a machinist with the right measuring tools, I'm sure I can find an alternative screw that will have a regular Phillips head on it as a replacement.

Smurphy

05-29-2005, 02:40 PM

Well, I was given a tip about those missing screws from another forum member. She recommended to use eyeglass replacement screws, available from the local drugstore. I did, and it worked fine. However, I caution you about choosing the correct screw length. Its no good using one too long and damaging the internals. I then applied lock-tite thread compound to all screws that I could remove from the case and have had no problems since.

fssia

05-30-2005, 01:28 AM

Sorry for the late response Fssia,

It's a nightmare working with these different support personnel. Still have not been able to get my replacement screws!

Here is the information you asked on how much they cost:

309130301
SCREW

Currently In Stock: Yes
Unit Price (in USD): $1.84

_________________________

309156701
SCREW, TRIANGULAR SOCKET

Currently In Stock: Yes
Unit Price (in USD): $1.84

and per Sony:

They only ship to USA, at least from Sony-USA.

Here is where I got the info:

http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/web/contact_us.jsp#

I do not wish to send my TH55 for a screw. Anyone has a spare they wish to give or sell for less?

Thank you.Thanx a lot, THX. I wouldn't sent my TH55 for a screw too. Why don't they just send the screws to you? :rolleyes: If you have the tri-bladed screwdriver, you can always replace the screws yourself.

I guess I'll need to contact Sony S'pore to see if they also keep these screws in stocks. ;)

DanT

05-30-2005, 02:48 AM

Thanks to Sony, almost every TH screws are different. So TH owners with missing screw(s) beware!

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_screws1.jpg

fssia

05-30-2005, 03:43 AM

My GOD!!! So many different screws and variety of length?

Screw for MS Door? Where is that? Also, I dunno what you mean by Top & Bottom Screen screens? I can only locate 5 screws on my TH55 excluding those 2 screws for the plastic screen cover. :confused:

DanT

05-30-2005, 11:22 AM

If you turn the TH upside down with MS door facing you and open it, the MS Door screw will be on the left side, in front of the hinge, underneath the door.

The top and bottom screen screws are inside the TH. Once you take off the front face, you will see them. The top screen pair of screws are for mounting the LCD/Digitizer assembly on to the motherboard. The bottom screen screw is to mount the hard button assembly (see my post #58 on the previous page) onto the LCD/Digitizer bottom part.

You only locate 5 external screws because there are a pair of screws underneath the flipcover hinges. You need to remove the flipcover to see the pair of "hinges +" screws. Another external screw is the MS door screw, as I mentioned above. So there are 8 external screws and 3 internal screws.

BTW, "+" means Phillips head and "Y" means 3-bladed head. They, not only have different length and types of head, but also have different diameter and the thread pitches (number of threads / inch). So, don't cross use with other screws unless that screw can be easily turned by the screwdriver effortlessly and it has the exact length, or you will strip the thread hole. If the replacement screw is longer, the end of the screw may make contact with the circuitboard and shotcircuited something.

Kosmonoko

05-30-2005, 09:41 PM

Ahha my cover finally came off a part of the plastic with super glue and the metal holder.

Man The TH55 is so much lighter... ;)

Btw how do you properly remove the cover?

Oh yeah i can see the two screws now.

EDIT:

The other part fell off too.

The right nub is black and the left one is right.

http://www.geocities.com/kosmonoko/DSC00019.JPG

DanT

05-31-2005, 10:02 AM

Did you break the flipcover hinges?

Kosmonoko

05-31-2005, 12:49 PM

Here is the picture of my TH55 :(
A plastic piece fell off.
http://www.geocities.com/kosmonoko/DSC03105.JPG

aklan

05-31-2005, 02:12 PM

I purchased the non-OEM cover with screwdriver assuming it also included the hinges connectors and the plate that comes on the original cover. It didn't...would anyone know where I could get it cheap? I called up Sony and they were talking about those parts alone costing almost $30 after you add the shipping costs. Sony really knows how to gouge you!!! I might as well order the cover from Sony since the rep said those parts I need are included with the cover.

DanT

06-01-2005, 12:03 AM

My goodness, Kosmonoko, you did break it. You should have read page 96 of "Read This First" manual.

Kosmonoko

06-01-2005, 12:56 AM

hmm i followed that. Isn't it go like this...
you have move the cover to right then pull...:eek:
ugh now it busted.:(
Maybe i should read that again.:o

Crap i can't find the instructions on how to remove the case. hmm. i have quick start, the waranty, docstogo6, the accessories, and safety warnings.

threengs

06-01-2005, 12:52 PM

My condolenses Kosmonoko, that TH-55 is not a pretty sight. Maybe some super glue and go-go plugs may help.

DanT

06-01-2005, 06:22 PM

I removed and installed 3 TH55 flipcovers several times with the procedure in the manual w/o any problem.

Here is how I did it:
1. Flip up the flipcover all the way to as far as it goes.
2. Push the left side of the flipcover all the way to the right with left thumb.
3. While in step 2, use your right hand to tilt the flipcover to the left to remove the right hinge first.
4. Once the right hinge is off, use your right hand to push the flipcover to the left.
5. While in step 4, use your right hand to tilt the flipcover to the right to remove the left hinge.

krhainos

06-01-2005, 08:05 PM

I tried to buy a flipcover, but GlobalSrc is down, but this guy has three left -- you get the clear flip cover AND the Y-shaped "Tri-wing" screwdriver for $9.95 total!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=64369&item=5778496419

salesrep

06-01-2005, 10:01 PM

Regarding the 'Sticky Button' issue: I had a similar problem on an SJ30 I bought. The up/down button was not stuck, but it was obvious that one of the buttons on the motherboard was depressed (made the rocker switch just flop up and down. . .)

I took the unit apart and found the foil bubble on the motherboard WAS depressed or deflated. I VERY carefully used the smallest precision screwdriver I had and worked it between the layers until I got to the bubble. I pryed (sp?) the bubble up and then retracted the screwdriver, careful to reseal the surface surrounding the bubble.

PROBLEM SOLVED! Now the button works as it should.

THX-1138

06-01-2005, 10:09 PM

DanT,

Need your help. I have just received the replacement screws from Sony, after a two week long and difficult "support" desk call for service.

Eitherway, they sent me the wrong screws. I need the screw "+" (phillips type) that is located below the infrared of the TH-55 but instead received two of "Y" (triblade type) battery compartment screws and two "+" (phillips type) back screws.

I am willing to trade with anyone here one of these screws for the IR screw that I need OR I can shorten the "+" (phillips type) back screw to the length of the IR one with a dremmel. Is it possible for you to provide me with the length (in metric) of the IR screw? Your help is appreciated. Thank you.

francis

06-01-2005, 10:12 PM

spare battery in good shape probably one year use hard to say as it was a floor model so it could be real old or fine I used and it charges will trade for flip cover. + money Francis

fssia

06-01-2005, 10:26 PM

@DanT: Thanx for the detailed descriptions. That will come handy. ;)

@Kosmonoko: My condolence to you & your TH55 too. :(

DanT

06-01-2005, 10:31 PM

THX-1138

06-01-2005, 11:29 PM

Thank you DanT! You made my day today! Will work on it tomorrow morning. Eitherway, I have the other screws as spares.

Regards,

THX-1138 :D

DanT

06-01-2005, 11:48 PM

No problemo THX. Glad to help.

FYI, below is another spareparts picture of digitizer and LCD. Eventhough the LCD is broken, the backlight, underneath the LCD with a skinny left-most ribbon cable, is still bright. This spare backlight later on will come handy after a couple of years, as the original backlight will wear out (i.e., it gets dimmer). So it is good to keep a spare one.

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949LCD_digitizer.JPG

DanT

06-02-2005, 07:05 PM

Here is the TH55 backlight unit of Clie_user's TH55 (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81018&page=2&pp=15&highlight=th55+pictures)

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_backlight.jpg

DanT

06-02-2005, 07:54 PM

Face off

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_Motherboard.jpg

psau3

06-03-2005, 03:58 PM

This spare backlight later on will come handy after a couple of years, as the original backlight will wear out (i.e., it gets dimmer).

I beg to differ.

The backlight element shown in the next post is a standard white-LED part, with the friction-fit diffraction plastic in place.

Whilst the capacitors used in the boost convertor circuit that drives the backlight might 'pop' after a while, the LEDs themselves should outlive the rest of the handheld.

Earlier devices used an electroluminescent sheet that DID wear out rapidly, at least for those of us that used them to read at night. :)

DanT

06-03-2005, 07:29 PM

I beg to differ.

The backlight element shown in the next post is a standard white-LED part, with the friction-fit diffraction plastic in place.

Whilst the capacitors used in the boost convertor circuit that drives the backlight might 'pop' after a while, the LEDs themselves should outlive the rest of the handheld.

Earlier devices used an electroluminescent sheet that DID wear out rapidly, at least for those of us that used them to read at night. :)

So, we shouldn't expect to see a dimmer LCD after 2-3 years of use like those older Clie? That's sounds good to me. We'll see in another year, I guess.

psau3

06-03-2005, 11:53 PM

So, we shouldn't expect to see a dimmer LCD after 2-3 years of use like those older Clie?

Nope. If the LEDs fail they should be cheap to replace. Same for the boost convertor and timing glue components. Actually, whilst we're on the subject it's a frontlight (or technically, sidelight), not a backlight. :)

The only fiddly part is swapping-out for the replacement components. When I did this professionally we'd get our prototype boards with BGA parts mounted, and solder the rest by hand. :D

Those FFC (flat flexible cable) connectors are the worst...

DanT

06-04-2005, 07:31 AM

Nope. If the LEDs fail they should be cheap to replace. Same for the boost convertor and timing glue components. Actually, whilst we're on the subject it's a frontlight (or technically, sidelight), not a backlight. :)

The only fiddly part is swapping-out for the replacement components. When I did this professionally we'd get our prototype boards with BGA parts mounted, and solder the rest by hand. :D

Those FFC (flat flexible cable) connectors are the worst...

OK then explain this:

1. TH55 product information on the side of the box says:
"Display: TFT color display with backlights, 320x480 dots, 65,536 colors"

2. The backlight panel is behind the LCD. The layout is:
a. Mirror panel
b. Backlight panel
c. LCD
d. Glass & digitizer

Have you ever open it up yourself or you just blowing old technical smokes?

The old N760C uses the frontlight because it has reflective TFT (I know this as I took apart and replaced the frontlights, LCDs, digitizers, batterys of several N760Cs). The newer Clies (T665 and later models) have the trans-reflective or advanced TFT with backlights. Check these articles:
http://www.sharpsma.com/lcd/AppRefGuide/DisplayModes.php
http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1978

Smurphy

06-04-2005, 08:00 PM

I recently posted to this thread about #3 key being stuck. I ordered a screwdriver from Brando - works great, and opened the covers, dissasembled the unit and was able to fix the problem. It seems that the button was pushed (or was hit) so hard it inverted the little saucer-like spring that held the key in the off position. Ok, problem solved, or so I thought. I checked the unit with the cover off, powering up and confirming that the buttons worked - while on battery power. Battery was working.

I unplugged the battery, re-seated the ribbon cables to the screen, etc. and the unit will not power up at all. A very nice paper weight I thought. More testing....

Now the unit works, but only on a recharge cable. The unit will not power on under battery power, and the amber charge light will not come on in the cradle either, so I assume that it is not recharging.

Here are the symptoms:

During the stuck key problem, the unit was kept in the cradle, or in a drawer, with the power button in the HOLD position, as this was the only way to keep the unit from flipping from screen to screen to screen, etc.

After about two weeks, I performed the "fix" to the button, and here I am.

I have tried a hard reset while plugged into the charger, but this did nothing.

I appears that perhaps the charging circuit will not recognize the battery.

I have tried everything I know, any ideas? :confused:

Thanks.

DanT

06-04-2005, 08:51 PM

Be sure all 4 ribbon cables are well seated. I would try to unlock all the connectors, push the pins all the way in and lock them in again. I had a display problem (screen remained dark) due to a loose hard button connector (top connector in the picture of post # 84) or not properly aligned pins. I think that connector has a unlocking lip (black bar). I use my finger nail to flick up the lip and unlock the connector. After reseating and aligning the pins, the problem was fixed.

psau3

06-05-2005, 06:11 AM

OK then explain this:

1. TH55 product information on the side of the box says:
"Display: TFT color display with backlights, 320x480 dots, 65,536 colors"

2. The backlight panel is behind the LCD. The layout is:
a. Mirror panel
b. Backlight panel
c. LCD
d. Glass & digitizer

Yep. However, use of the term backlight with this transflective component stack is a simplification; it's still an LED sidelight.

Have you ever open it up yourself or you just blowing old technical smokes?

I have not yet fully disassembled my '55, and by that I mean pulling apart the display matrix.

I do have an idea for patching into the data connector to add a wired remote for audioplayer, using a spare PEGA-GC10 multiway plug. This will require rewiring the jog/switch assembly and hold/power signal lines.

The old N760C uses the frontlight because it has reflective TFT (I know this as I took apart and replaced the frontlights, LCDs, digitizers, batterys of several N760Cs). The newer Clies (T665 and later models) have the trans-reflective or advanced TFT with backlights. Check these articles:
http://www.sharpsma.com/lcd/AppRefGuide/DisplayModes.php
http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1978

Our 1st-gen product featured an TFT-frontlight-digitiser stack, which was hand-assembled into the top plastic. The follow-up device used a gorgeous Philips LP8658-B 3.5" transflective module.

Actually, whilst we're on the subject it's a frontlight

It all blurs together after a long day. My mistake.

To bring this back on-topic, I have a spare PEGA-GC10 game controller, minus data connector and cable.

DanT

06-05-2005, 08:22 AM

...I do have an idea for patching into the data connector to add a wired remote for audioplayer, using a spare PEGA-GC10 multiway plug. This will require rewiring the jog/switch assembly and hold/power signal lines.
...

This sounds interesting! Please post your result here. I would like to learn how to do it myself too.

psau3

06-05-2005, 09:37 AM

Simple enough in theory:

1. Multiway connector has a number of pins that are;
a. Unused
b. Not used by me.

2. I have a collection of unused Walkman-style wired remotes.

3. Profit!

Seriously though, using the external switches in a wired remote to replicate whatever functionality is available in the current audioplayer mode is just a wiring job. The remotes I have even feature the required latching 'hold' switch, and the PEGA-GC10 plug seems to be the lowest-profile connector available.

It might be possible to do a similar thing in code (to save rewiring), but I was always a much better hardware engineer than programmer. I suspect it's non-trivial to have a background app polling the IO for switch activity and redirecting to audioplayer, especially in PalmOS. If not, I'll happily team up with whoever can code this beast, and mass-produce remotes. :)

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 10:26 AM

Be sure all 4 ribbon cables are well seated. I...the problem was fixed.

Thanks, DanT.

I have re-seated all ribbon cables associated with the buttons and the screen to no avail. The unit appears to function flawlessly when on the charger power, and immediately fails if the charger cable is disconnected. It is almost like it cannot tell that a battery is present. The battery charge icon indicates "Charging", LINE POWER, 100%.

I get a brief flash when I plug in the charger cable from the amber charging light.

I think I am going to let the unit sit for a few days, then try recharging. Thanks for the input.

Does anyone know how to specifically re-set the battery charge circuits? I saw this on another thread....at this point, my '55 remains permanently connected to the charger cable. Maybe they sell those cables in 200' lengths? ;)

psau3

06-05-2005, 11:38 AM

Have you tried disconnecting the cell, connecting external power, then plugging the cell back in?

I had a weird stuck-in-reset issue a few weeks back, and that was the only way to clear it.

Are you able to see if the cell is still supplying current? If you have access to a multimeter, good. If not, an LED can be used momentarily - don't worry about polarity, if you get a light in either orientation you should be ok. Just be careful not to short the legs or meter probes together. It's likely to blow the internal fuse.

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 12:06 PM

Battery is still showing approx. 4.4v discharging - man are those contacts small. I have an analog multi-meter, so I cannot give exact readings, but this indicates to me that the battery is functioning.

As for your other trick, the first time I tried it, the unit turned its backlight off, saying that the battery charge was too low (battery was disconnected) when it was running on line power. Then it reset and displayed the same problem. I think that if I was to install the battery plug when it thought that the battery was too low might have done the trick, at least some circuit was checking battery charge levels. Unfortunately, I could not get the battery clip seated in time. This only happened once. Subsequent tries never read the battery again (if that is what is happening). I am letting the unit sit for 10 - 15 mins. and will try again to get that battery is too low message.

Thanks for the help. IF I continue to experience this problem, is your guess a damaged motherboard (no idea how that could have happened) or do you think I have a chance resetting something?

Regards

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 12:11 PM

About the fuse. Were you referring to the fuse on the unit or in the battery? Can I check that fuse on the unit to see if it is blown?

psau3

06-05-2005, 01:13 PM

About the fuse. Were you referring to the fuse on the unit or in the battery? Can I check that fuse on the unit to see if it is blown?

There is likely to be a surface-mount fuse somewhere on the protection circuit - this is mounted between the tin/aluminium power contacts that come out the end of the cell itself, and hidden under layers of tape.

A fuse is usually included because these cells can source a lot of current. External power to the device is regulated, so no need for an internal fuse.

I have checked that the Sony-supplied cell has this circuit. You have a voltage present, so this part looks ok.

Battery is still showing approx. 4.4v discharging - man are those contacts small. I have an analog multi-meter, so I cannot give exact readings, but this indicates to me that the battery is functioning.

Just to check - you are measuring the voltage of the cell, removed from the clie?

Lithium-ion chemistry produces about 3.7-4.2V usable potential. Higher than that should indicate a fully-charged cell. Lower than about 3.2V and you're going to damage the cell.

Without opening up my '55 and probing, I wouldn't like to take a guess at the layout of the proprietary mainboard power circuits.

At this point, I would suggest:

1. Using the Sony-supplied power adaptor and not a USB sync/charger. USB ports shouldn't supply more than 100mA unless the device requests so. This would not be enough current to run the device if it thinks a battery is not present or flat. You didn't say what you were using.

2. Removing the cell and external power and having a coffee.

3. Apply external power. Find a 2nd pair of hands that can hold the device in reset.

4. Plug in cell, wait for a few seconds and release the reset switch.

Ideally it should boot as normal. Possibly it might shut down, but charge with the power LED lit, and wake up later.

No luck? One thing you could try is to test the cell under a substitute load. Wire up a small motor, like a Mabuchi FA130 or similar. Something small and cheap from a broken toy or car will do, but not a racing-slot car. Let it spin while you have another coffee. If the cell can't drive the motor at a constant whine for more than a few seconds, it's a dud. Grab a new cell off ebay. I see them for under 10$ including shipping.

If you are still having problems, it might be best to consider a repair.

Best of luck. :)

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 01:21 PM

Just to check - you are measuring the voltage of the cell, removed from the clie?

Yes.

Using the Sony-supplied power adaptor

I'm using this (today) but normally use a Sony cradle, that is powered by the identical low voltage transformer. (all Sony products, no USB power used).

I'll try procedure as requested and report back. Thanks.

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 05:06 PM

Results of psau3's suggestion.

Well, the procedure listed below looked promising at first.

. Removing the cell and external power and having a coffee.

3. Apply external power. Find a 2nd pair of hands that can hold the device in reset.

4. Plug in cell, wait for a few seconds and release the reset switch.

The result was different at least, the screen display displays alternate lines of information, vertical blue stripes of varying width and then fades to grey. Hey, at least it was a different result. Using battery power only, the unit remained dead.

I then puchased a small hand held air fan at the drugstore for $1.50 US. The motor it used was power by (2) AA cells in series, so it should have worked. When I applied the probes to the battery, the motor would not even spin. It was approximately the same dimensions as the one recommended (Mabuchi FA130 ) and operated at the same voltage. The motor had no marking on it, but it was probably the same draw as the Mabuchi - .11A - .15A at no load, max .9A. The motor did not spin. The battery shows 4.4v. I believe that the motor should have spun up to some RPM's. I tried to measure current to the motor, but it was over then range of my meter - 150Ma +. Maybe the motor is too large of a draw.

My present thesis is that the battery is fried. I'll attempt again when I have a new one. I need my '55 back.

psau3

06-05-2005, 06:45 PM

The result was different at least, the screen display displays alternate lines of information, vertical blue stripes of varying width and then fades to grey.

I also had this during my weird stuck-in-reset episode. Got rather worried, but followed the procedure I described and all was well. The extra coffee made me jumpy though.

The motor did not spin. The battery shows 4.4v. I believe that the motor should have spun up to some RPM's. I tried to measure current to the motor, but it was over then range of my meter - 150Ma +. Maybe the motor is too large of a draw.

Damn right it should have. With generally no internal current limitation, and only the fuse (assumed) on the protection circuit, the motor should have turned rather rapidly. The lipolymer cells can source substantially more current than dry or alkaline primaries. Which leads me to suspect that the protection circuit might be at fault.

Peel back the insulating tapes and expose the cell contacts - measure the voltage again (you might see a small rise over the previous reading). Connect the motor directly to the flat silvery contacts.

Try not to bend the contacts at the point they exit the foil of the cell. They are fragile. If the motor turns as expected, the problem lies in the protection circuit.

My present thesis is that the battery is fried. I'll attempt again when I have a new one. I need my '55 back.

Let us know when you get a replacement. Also, all lipolymer cells share the same performance characteristics (a generalisation, but will do for testing purposes), so if you have any other kit with a 2-wire cell* lying around that you can borrow a cell from, you'll do no harm connecting it up for a few minutes testing.

*some cells or packs have additional connections for 'pack detect', 'safe to charge', 'temperature', etc.

psau3

06-05-2005, 07:03 PM

One last thought - go through the procedure again (coffee optional), but keep it held in reset for a few minutes before releasing.

Being kept in 'hold' for a few weeks will have drained the cell. Even the best protection circuit cannot prevent self-discharge, and the '55 will have been trying to draw every last erg out during its 'rest'...

The 'hold-on-reset' trick can sometimes put enough charge back into a drained cell to convince the charge/power regulation circuitry that all is well, and allow the device to power-up as normal. This does depend on the design of the device, but is worth a try...

the amber charge light will not come on in the cradle either, so I assume that it is not recharging.

Suggesting that the charge circuitry cannot detect a cell. As this device doesn't have 'pack detect' and 'safe to charge' pins, it is probably expecting to find the cell voltage being in the 3.7-4.2V+ range before starting charging.

If the cell has discharged down below that then nothing will happen. The 4.4V reading might be a result of the meter only drawing a miniscule amount of current, and the cell voltage not dropping appreciably. This cell chemistry will appear to 'recharge' when left under no-load conditions. Unusual for it to rise so high as 4.4, but stranger things have happened...

Fingers crossed.

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 10:55 PM

Just to be clear, we are talking about a HARD reset - correct - that is hold the slide switch down and hit the reset button?

Once more into the breach.....

Thanks for sticking with me. :)

Smurphy

06-05-2005, 11:12 PM

OK, I assume that it is charging on the power cable, I'll let it go all night. Sorry, no time just now for the protection ckt. test.

psau3

06-06-2005, 03:01 AM

Just to be clear, we are talking about a HARD reset - correct - that is hold the slide switch down and hit the reset button?

The clie 'hard' reset is probably a software function - if the power reg circuit does not read a fault from other systems (HHE, memory, networking, etc.) it should power the device up.

If the power pin appears latched following a reset for a certain number of clock cycles then low-level code (possibly a bootloader*) will wipe the RAM and reload the app suite, support files and those annoying pictures from ROM.

So, probably no need to hold the power slide down - just the reset switch.

OK, I assume that it is charging on the power cable, I'll let it go all night. Sorry, no time just now for the protection ckt. test.

When you do get the chance to try this, no need to leave it that long. If keeping it in reset will cause the charge circuitry to try to charge the cell regardless of the apparent cell voltage, 10 minutes will do.

Thanks for sticking with me. :)

No problem. Glad to be of help to our little community. :)

*guessing here. That's how I'd do it. I did some lightweight "Hello, world." coding on my Vx, but didn't get this deep.

DanT

06-06-2005, 08:25 PM

Just get a new battery. You can get one from ebay for $15, including shipping. If it still doesn't work, you can keep it as a spare. The original battery will crap out in 1 to 2 years of use anyway. I got a couple spare ones stored in a sealed plastic bag in my refrigerator right now.

psau3

06-07-2005, 03:22 AM

My present thesis is that the battery is fried. I'll attempt again when I have a new one. I need my '55 back.

He's going to. It would be useful to know if the charge circuitry is at fault.

Lithium cells can fail in a spectacular manner when incorrectly charged. One early incident concerned a portable defibrilator unit in a fire station. The battery ruptured and the expelled flammable gas caught fire. One member of staff was blown through an open doorway, the other through the partition wall.

Not going to happen with the single lipolymer cell in a clie, but you might get gross swelling of the cell which would break the display and digitiser. 'Venting with flame', a catastrophic cell failure due to short or overcharge, will destroy the pda and cause damage to the surroundings.

So, while he waits for his replacement cell to arrive, he may as well poke around to see if an expensive RMA to Sony is required...

I got a couple spare ones stored in a sealed plastic bag in my refrigerator right now.

Yep, that's the best thing to do. Most cell manufacturers advise long-term storage at 40% capacity in temps of 10-30 degrees C as optimum. Most domestic fridges cool to around 5-8. I see a market for a peltier-pumped 'personal lipolymer storage' unit, with the obligatory blue status LED. People will buy anything these days. :D

Smurphy

06-19-2005, 08:05 PM

Well the battery arrived during a very busy week. I tried the new battery, to no avail.

I will retry the reset procedure tonight - please stand by. That RMA is looming on the hroizon, I fear, but I must have my Clie back. I saw a LifeDrive this weekend and played around with it a bit, it was very similar to the Clie, but boy, is it a brick. What is sleek and fast in the Clie is clunky and somewhat slow (at least loading the cache) on the LifeDrive. Well, 4MB is something, but I have trouble filling my 256 MB sticks as it is...... Bought a digital multimeter also, so I can test with some accuracy. Hold tight for a few hours and I will have some reports on the old and new battery.

Thanks again.

Sean.

Smurphy

06-20-2005, 01:38 AM

Okay -

I'm betting on the charging cicuit being bad. The new battery is showing 3.77v and when running the little motor shows 206 - 206 mA current.

The old battery is showing 4.16v and now (inexplicably) runs the motor with a draw of 190 mA - 195 mA.

Still no action from the unit with the new or old battery plugged in. It acts as if no battery is present......

I'm going to button everything back up, and if it still does not work following Psau3'a procedures then I'll go get an RMA from Sony.

psau3

06-24-2005, 07:18 AM

I'm betting on the charging cicuit being bad.

Yep. Looks like the power management circuitry (charging is one function) is shot. :(

JAmerican

07-13-2005, 08:55 PM

Hey DanT and the gang here at the TH55 forums :) I refer to DanT in that he is the creator of this thread. I found a website that has a lot of TH55 parts for the /U devices. Very little for the /E1 and /E2. No motherboards from either I already checked. Except there are some expensive things in there so if anyone wants to buy them and let us know. That would be great. Enjoy guys.

UX50/TH55 Parts Center!! (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91826)

JAmerican

DanT

07-13-2005, 10:45 PM

That's a good site for reference. Thanks for the heads up! However, I was looking for LCD and found one in there for $225, ouch!

JAmerican

07-14-2005, 12:47 AM

That's a good site for reference. Thanks for the heads up! However, I was looking for LCD and found one in there for $225, ouch!

Yea, its really expensive.

JAmerican

psau3

07-14-2005, 02:53 AM

Damian

07-14-2005, 10:41 AM

Ouch. Having recently repaired my brother's 4th-gen iPod (broken LCD), these prices are indicative of the old 'buying used devices to pull apart for spares' scam. Virtually all components in these devices are custom designs (exceptions will be cells, LCDs, speakers, microphones). It'd be cheaper for a group of 1src users to pool cash and buy from eBay to provide the bits.

Then sell the resultant spares to pay for the initial cost. :rolleyes:

In case you want to do this I will be more than willing to pay to buy a replacement cover with hinge. (Or if someone have a spare one.. pm please). Those are almost impossible to find in Canada.

Smurphy

07-14-2005, 11:00 AM

I'll take the motherboard on US TH55 (WiFi), and pay the lions share for same.

psau3

07-15-2005, 02:35 AM

I'll consider purchasing a TH55 for salvage. I would not be looking to make any profit from this, just cover the purchase price.

Anyone else (apart from Damian and Smurphy) interested in spares / repairs?

Perhaps we should start a 'wants' thread.

DanT

07-17-2005, 09:03 PM

Good idea.

I'm looking for LCD, but it would be a long shot since this is the most common problem and most expensive. I may pay a used good-working (no dead pixels) LCD for $75 (half of what Sony would charge for new LCD).

iratelizard

10-28-2005, 08:37 AM

Does anyone still need any goodies? I have a TH-55 with a broken screen, the rest still works great. iratelizard at comcast.net if anybody's interested.

Smurphy

10-28-2005, 09:32 AM

Yes, drop me an email.

El Maquinas

10-29-2005, 09:39 AM

NR, NX, Nv, & TH Series use the same battery. Walstoned bought it and tested it in his TH55. You can verify it by looking at the parts number for it in Laptop for Less site. They list it as : UP503759-NR70TH or UP503759-NR70. Get it?

Hi,

Recently I tested a TJ35 battery on my TH55, booth batteries are similar in size, uses the same power connector but uses a different cable length, the TJ35 battery is bit more difficult to install due it short cable but seems to work fine.

I have visited some online shops where TJ35 and TH55 betteries where sold and again, they seems to be the same battery but with a different cable length.

Can anyone confirm us if the TJ35 and TH55 battery are the same but with a different cable length?

Regards.

DanT

11-23-2005, 06:02 PM

JAmerican

11-23-2005, 11:11 PM

I don't have TJ35, so can't answer your question.

Today, I just notice a hair-line crack on the TH55 casing. The crack runs from the + screw, below the IR, to the back of the casing. I guess the stress of my fingers pulling it from my pants front pocket and the bending action while it is in my pocket did the crack. Everything else is still fine, thank goodness.

If I keep the flipcover on it, the crack may not happen, but what a pain to flip every time I want to use it. One of these days I'll swap the case with my spare one.

Acutally, I think the TH uses a little bit more powerful battery but Laptopforless is playing it off as a TH when its a NR70 battery. I got one of those and it came saying NR70TH but when I removed their sticker, the original sticker said NR70 only.

Also look here...

http://products.sel.sony.com/semi/energy/productinfo.html

UP325385A5H (TH55) 28g 3.2 x 53 x 85 mm 1320 (1240) 174 339

UP503759A7H (NR70) 23g 5 x 37 x 59 mm 1300 (1240) 209 441

I think this is right. Can you confirm the Model # on the TH battery DanT?

JAmerican

psau3

11-24-2005, 04:26 AM

UP325385A5H (TH55) 28g 3.2 x 53 x 85 mm 1320 (1240) 174 339

UP503759A7H (NR70) 23g 5 x 37 x 59 mm 1300 (1240) 209 441

I think you have the two cells mixed up. The TH55 isn't 85mm wide. ;)

psau3

11-24-2005, 04:31 AM

The crack runs from the + screw, below the IR, to the back of the casing.

That area is partially reinforced by the stylus channel. Good, in a way, but there's not much room to add in a brace. :(

DanT

11-24-2005, 09:00 AM

I think this is right. Can you confirm the Model # on the TH battery DanT?

JAmerican

I only see 1 (ONE) battery in the list that fits my TH55. That is:
UP503759A7H 23g 5 x 37 x 59 mm 1300 (1240) 209 441.

My measurement is a little bit off, 6 x 36 x 60 mm, but it is within +/- 1mm. No code is written on the cover.

psau3

11-24-2005, 09:41 AM

No code is written on the cover.

The code is printed in an ink which doesn't ahere well to the plastic outer layer of the cell package, and printed underneath the black pull-tab. Lifting the tab lifts the ink, so you can read it off the tab in reverse. Lick it for enhanced visibility. Or not. Doesn't taste very nice. :p

Mine (from spare, dismantled unit) :

SONY FUKUSHIMA
U5503759 A7H
4DMB1SE

Similar, but U5 instead of UP. UP might be a spares prefix.

Tudordoc

03-07-2006, 03:59 PM

DanT

03-07-2006, 05:37 PM

Other than eBay, I guess you can try Sony (http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/web/index.jsp).

Glueing the broken piece back on wouldn't work I assume. How about just don't use the flipcover and put THe Go Go plugs on the hinge holes?

DanT

03-11-2006, 07:05 PM

My Th55 has a crack in the case where the flip cover is anchored. Soon one of the flip swivels is not going to stay in place. Where can I get a spare case and how easy is it to replace??

TudorDoc

dragonsgames, in this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?p=903404#post903404) pointed out Tiger Direct parts that seems to sell various TH55 case parts. Check the link below. There are 2 parts # referring to "cover main assembly" for $55.52 each.

X39542352 and X39544582

We know the X39542352 is for the complete flipcover assembly (see post # 22 of this thread), so that leaves X39544582. However, I'm afraid that they are referring to the same parts. Let us know if that is the correct parts # or not.

http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/ModelDetail.aspx?close=1&exact=1&MfgID=76&ModelID=506491&PartCatCode=&PartMfgID=0&Type=parts

maxilogan

03-13-2006, 04:23 PM

So what do you guys have to trade mine with? ;)

Hi there. Is there any way to get a working TH55 LCD screen?!? Bought a N770 to replace my TH55, but I can not rely on a device which seldomly auto-reboots and that does not manage audio alarms!!! It is born to do the internet tablet, not a PIM

Thanks to all!

DanT

03-13-2006, 04:58 PM

If your TH55 LCD is broken, your best bet is to send it off to Sony repair as the parts for do it yourself will cost you $60-70 more than the repair + S&H.

maxilogan

03-14-2006, 03:11 AM

If your TH55 LCD is broken, your best bet is to send it off to Sony repair as the parts for do it yourself will cost you $60-70 more than the repair + S&H.

Ok, I'll try again. Sony support here in Italy seem to be poor, I already tried lots of time to get in touch with them but always waited more than 1/2 an hour at the phone, then once the operator get the call, the line cuts *every time*. No needs to say its not a standard rate line, and that is suspicious for me :confused:

DanT

03-18-2006, 05:30 PM

I updated my first post as some of the links are no longer valid, added more links posted by others, and included some pictures of the parts to help identify what we are talking about.

I try to update my TH55 spareparts collection that would be available for sale, trade, or beg in that same post #1. :)

fssia

03-19-2006, 08:43 PM

@DanT: Great job! Really appreciate your initiatives and hard work in keeping all these updated. So far I have no need for any parts yet except the inner side of the flip cover is getting a bit scratch and so is the contact areas on the main unit. But I can live with that.

DanT

03-21-2006, 10:14 PM

Thanks. I hope your TH55 is still going strong.

Keep it away from Movie Recorder. I heard a lot of busted camera because of it. My guess is the CMOS is not designed for taking video, only for taking still picture. Check my comment in this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108127&page=1) with reference of psau3 melted camera ribbon tape, as shown in this other thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106028&highlight=th55+camera).

I updated some parts numbers, added Camera module and LCD part numbers, provided by salesrep after he received his TH55/E1 back from Sony repair. Not bad for paying $150 repair with over $310 replacement parts ($218 for LCD and $83 for camera module).

THX-1138

03-21-2006, 10:37 PM

fssia

03-21-2006, 11:48 PM

Thanx for the warning, DanT. I'm glad that I never bothered to mess too much with Movie Recorder and other apps that are not intended for TH55. I don't even use Landscape. I have tested it but don't find it worth the hassle. It's hard to write when it's on Landscape mode. Flipping around is messy for my ZL and I need special background image for Landscape mode. :rolleyes:

Somehow I love my TH55 too much to wanna mess with it too much, esp. because it's like a collector's items now. :p

DanT

03-22-2006, 12:12 AM

Hello DanT,

The picture you mention does not show a melted ribon cable but instead a part of the lever system for the camara cover. Do not know why it seems to be melted but doubt very much it was due to an overheated camara module. :rolleyes:

You're right. That is not ribbon cable and it is some kind of a plastic lever. How it is melted remains to be a mistery.

Because of your inquiry I became curious and took my TH55 with broken LCD apart and unplugged the camera module (see picture below). It is bolted into the back of case with a screw.

BTW, I added a picture of disassembled TH55 in 1st post.

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949TH55_camera_module.JPG

THX-1138

03-22-2006, 08:39 AM

Hello DanT,

Is there a way for you to test that camara module to be working 100%?

I am interested in it if mine proves to be a faulty Camara module. How do you deal? How much for the module and what payment type do you accept?

I also wish to find out where I can get the 'special' screw driver for the TH55.

DanT

03-22-2006, 09:41 AM

All three of my camera modules are working fine. I took a picture with the one posted above last night, after I put my TH55 test unit back together. This TH55, although has bleeding LCD, is, amazingly, able to see some images behind the bleeds. Unfortunately this is my spare camera module for both TH55/U and back-up TH55/E.

However, I will get another broken TH55 some time this week with hopefully "good" camera module that I plan to test it with my TH55 test unit. If that is the case, I will let you know.

As far as testing yours. I have no idea, other than taking it apart and look for any evidence of damage. If none found, remove the module and put it on another TH55 with good camera module, and see if it indeed the module is bad. You can even send your TH55 to me for such test, free of charge for 1src member, as long as you provide the return postage, if you don't feel like doing it yourself. I've done a similar deal for Chou chou (replacing her TH55 battery).

If later on you end up buying the battery module from me, I'd sell it for $50. I take money order or paypal. Send me a PM if you want to talk in more detail.

You can get the right 3-blade screwdriver from Brando (http://shop.brando.com.hk/trino1screwdriver.php), see the picture below.

Good luck!

http://shop.brando.com.hk/image/trino1screwdriver_s.jpg

DanT

03-22-2006, 10:02 PM

THX-1138, my Camera Module is available for sale if you are still interested. I figure I won't need it for a while and might as well let someone who needs it puts it into a good use.

I fixed stempler's TH55 with bad digitizer (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107789) in exchange with his other broken TH55, hoping that I get a good camera module out of it. Unfortunately it has bad camera module too. I get the following message:

Multimedia System Error
X Unknown error occured
in Multimedia System.
CLIE Camera will abort.
OK

Oh well, so much for that hope. I don't feel like taking my TH55 test unit apart again for the 5th time just for swaping the bad Camera Module with the good one. May be I'll do like salesrep did, have Sony repair swap both Camera Module and LCD at the same time.

I now decided to part out one of my TH55 with bad LCD and sell the components to whoever need them. Just spread the words. First come, first serve.

DanT

03-23-2006, 12:49 AM

My Th55 has a crack in the case where the flip cover is anchored. Soon one of the flip swivels is not going to stay in place. Where can I get a spare case and how easy is it to replace??

TudorDoc

If you still want one, I can sell mine now for $20. The parts include top gray frame and 4 hard buttons and LED lenses for POWER REC and WLAN (no BLUETOOTH). It is like the one shown in the bottom-right of the first picture of my first post in this thread, but not that one. This one has a scatch on the left side of the gray frame, but the hinges are in good condition.

It is easy to remove. Just need to unscrew 5 screws (2 in the hinge holes, 1 below the IR lens, 2 at the bottom next to HotSync connector). You do need the 3 blade screwdriver to remove the bottom screws.

Just send me a PM if you are interested. I can email you a better picture of the face plate. I do take PayPal.

THX-1138

03-23-2006, 09:59 AM

DanT,

Just sent you a PM.

DanT

03-23-2006, 07:16 PM

My used parts list update:
1. Camera Module is reserved.
2. Digitizer is reserved.
3. Battery cover and Back (+ head) screw are sold.
4. LCDs (2) are trashed, but backlights (2) are still very bright.
5. Top cover & frame assembly is sold.
6. The rest of the parts are still available at half price of the new ones. :)

Added a picture of IR/Right/Jogdial/Left/earphone Jack assembly and MS reader in post # 1.

lee555

03-28-2006, 01:10 AM

Hi DanT, just had a look at the camera module screenshot on this thread, is it held in place by only one screw? Do you mean there there is no need to solder anything into place?

DanT

03-28-2006, 04:22 AM

Yes and Yes. You got it dude!

LanMan

04-04-2006, 08:52 AM

DanT, what do you think would be the best/cheapest way to replace the front cover (not the screen protector/face-plate)? I dropped my original '55 and it cracked right at the left hinge for the face-plate. Now the crack has chipped away and I have had to remove the face-plate to keep it from chipping more.

DanT

04-04-2006, 10:40 AM

If you are referring to the top case & frame assembly (bottom-right corner of Figure 2 in post #1 of this thread), the cheapest way is to glue the chipped piece back onto the case, put plugs on the hinge holes, and forget about using the flipcover.

If you still want to use the flipcover, you need to replace the whole top case. It is fairly easy to do it. I explained how to do it in post #18 of this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83766&page=2). Unfortunately I have sold my spare top case to Tudordoc.

The next cheapest way is to find a broken TH55 with good top case from eBay and swap the top case yourself. If I get another broken TH55 for spare parts, I can sell you the top case for the same price as the one that I sold to Tudordoc, $20 + shipping. Just let me know if you want to go that route.

BTW, I do have 2 spare of flipcover with female hinges attached to the flicover. if anyone is looking for it. They are used with few rubbing marks on the tinted face, however.

LanMan

04-04-2006, 11:10 AM

Yes, the "top case" is what I am talking about. I would like for you to keep me in mind for that should you get another.

What about Sony? Will they repair that as well? I might consider sending it to them to repair both the case and my broken capture button. Plus my recorder slider is sticking.

DanT

04-04-2006, 12:24 PM

The capture button repair requires motherboard replacement as I have offered you to repair it in post #38 of this "Disable voice recorder?" thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107862&page=3). I still have the motherboard if you are interested.

The sticking slider may require a replacement of the hard button assembly, as shown in post #1, Figure 6 of this thread. I have a spare of it too.

I have a 3rd fully functioning TH55 that I use for testing. It would not need the top case for testing. I can sell it to you and get another later from eBay if you want it now badly.

If you are interested to have all 3 things repaired / replaced for $75, half of what Sony will charge you, just send me a PM. ;)

LanMan

04-04-2006, 12:31 PM

Sorry DanT, I missed that repair offer #38. That seems like a pretty good offer. However, I'll have to wait until after tax season before I could take you up on that.

DanT

04-04-2006, 06:07 PM

No problemo. I'll reserve those parts for you until then.

LanMan

04-05-2006, 08:39 AM

No problemo. I'll reserve those parts for you until then.

Wow, thanks DanT! :D

DanT

04-05-2006, 07:09 PM

I updated OEM part numbers in post #1 (especially the camera module, apparently there are several types) and added the battery, which costs $38.40 :rolleyes:

I just won a TH55 with bad WiFi radio and bad battery but good everything else, including the LCD ;), so I'll update my sparepart list if this unit is un-repairable. Stay tune. :)

This is a second time I hear about bad WiFi radio.

PCMaven

04-08-2006, 01:47 PM

I would be interested in a camera module since mine broke quite some time ago. Would anyone be interested in repairing it or is it easy enough to fix by myself?

DanT

04-08-2006, 02:31 PM

Sorry I'm out of used camera module. It is a hot item. There are 2 other guys on my waiting list for the part/repair.

If you want to do it yourself, read post #1 and get the new camera module from Sony for $93.11 + shipping. If you rather let someone else do it, I can repair it for $125 (including shipping to NJ) with brand new camera module and quick turnaround (1 week) or $50 less with a used camera module. The latter one will depend on when I can get the used part. PM me if you are interested and we talk detail.

DanT

04-09-2006, 09:46 PM

Another TH55 parts update. That LCD & digitizer assembly from eBay Item number: 9705743458, as I mentioned in post # 155 is sold! Wow that was quick.

I have quite a few of backlights and Flipcovers now (3 of each).

Spareparts that are currently reserved by some 1src members:
1. Camera module
2. Motherboard
3. Battery Cover
4. Top Case & Frame assembly

Keep those parts wanted rolling! I'll have more parts coming in next week. :D

Markcar

04-16-2006, 04:57 PM

I've just broken the LCD of my TH55. I'm looking for a replacement and maybe also for a new battery.
Can you help me?

DanT

04-16-2006, 07:47 PM

Ouch! I'm sorry to hear that.

Yes, I can certainly help you, but not right way. LCD is a tough one to get. I got one last week and it was sold to a guy in Italy. He already sent his TH55/E to me. So I'm committed to repair his broken LCD next week, when I get it.

When I get another LCD, I'll send you a PM first thing. BTW, if you are in US, you can let Sony repairs it, including putting a new battery, all for a flat fee of $150. Please check my post #1 for detail. Otherwise, stay tune!

BSherm

04-18-2006, 02:47 PM

I recently needed to get my TH repaired through Sony, it it was very fast, and just under $150. I was happy to have the repaired TH back...

DanT

04-18-2006, 09:14 PM

Something like $149.39, 13 days turnaround?

DanT

04-28-2006, 06:46 PM

Just added Figure 9: TH55/E motherboard with Bluetooth vs. TH55/U motherboard without Bluetooth. This is why TH55/E is still just about $100 more expensive than TH55/U.

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949BT_chip.JPG

Also Figure 10: Camera CAPTURE button. You'll need to replace motherboard to fix it. If you have TH55/E, it will be an expensive repair, so take it easy on it. ;)

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Capture_button.JPG

Figure 11: My spareparts ;)
http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949My_TH55s.JPG

JAmerican

05-06-2006, 06:20 PM

Amazing guide and pictures!! Great work DanT :)

JAmerican

DanT

05-06-2006, 07:35 PM

Thanks. I try to keep them updated. If anyone has tips or other good source for reasonable TH55 parts, please post. TH55 LCD assembly for $218.92 is just ridiculously high. I sure wish I could use TX or equivalent LCD for TH.

Graz

05-24-2006, 05:03 PM

DanT or anyone. I dropped my TH55 and the right flip cover hing snapped free from the body. The left hing is still in place. How do I snap this back in? It looks like it needs to slip over the back pin in the body but there isn't enough play. This black pin in the body doesn't look like the other side which is larger and grey or should both sides be grey. How can I get the hing back on? Thanks so much. Graz

DanT

05-24-2006, 05:14 PM

While the left hinge is still attached, push the flipcover to the right of the TH55 and snap the right hinge back into the socket, the reverse of removal procedure that is provided in page 96 of Read This First manual (see below).

Left pin is white and right pin is black to distinguish between the left and right pins as they are mirror image of each other.

You can "help" the right hinge to get into the socket by pushing the black pin into the socket (left direction) with your stylus tip.

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Flipcover_removal_procedure.JPG

Graz

05-24-2006, 06:00 PM

spwork

06-08-2006, 01:01 PM

My th55's back light is getting darker and darker...
I think maybe I need to change my TH55's LCD...
Can you help me?? How much is a lcd part??
Or can I just chang the backlight part?

http://static.flickr.com/51/161807564_1d3ddcc112.jpg

DanT

06-08-2006, 02:39 PM

I can replace your backlight for $75 including shipping. Just send me a PM and we talk detail.

Joel

06-09-2006, 01:56 AM

Go for DanT's offer :) When the deal's done, I hope you can post a picture of the successful operation.

DanT

06-09-2006, 08:18 AM

Changing TH55 backlight and digitizer are the most difficult part replacing job because you need to split open the LCD assembly. You are likely to scratch the LCD if you are not careful. It takes practise to not screwing up your LCD. ;)

Sony won't even bother doing that surgery and just replace the whole LCD assembly for a flat fee of $150 with 90-day warranty.

For 1src member, I'll do it for half-price with one-year warranty. :)

laolita

06-17-2006, 01:56 PM

I'm not in the US so I don't think I can get such a cheap replacement of the screen (last time I got it done in Japan but it ended up costing twice as much after an initial estimate of about $150). This time I will source a screen and change it myself as I think it will be faster.
Which leads me to a question... can you change the screen without data loss?
(I think I could on a PIII but I don't know if TH55 needs battery power to retain it's 32MB memory state and I don't know if the battery has to be removed/disconnected to change the LCD)

DanT

06-17-2006, 02:29 PM

You could but I won't do it in fear of zapping the screen from accidental shortcircuiting during reconnecting the LCD 3 ribbon connectors.

Restoring your RAM manually is a good way of cleaning all those orphan files anyway, Palm Feng Shui so to speak, clearing all of the clutters off your RAM ;). This is the best way to defragmenting your RAM. You will see a noticeable faster operation afterwards.

In all of my TH55 repair works, I always disconnect the battery first. Otherwise, you might end up with a bigger problem, like dead motherboard.

FYI, I repair TH55's LCD for $150, including retun shipping to any where in the world. I've done such repair on TH55/E1, TH55/E2, TH55/J, TH55/U in USA and from other countries such as UK, Italy, and Brazil. I also provide one-year warranty for parts and labor, unlike Sony, which only gives a 90-day warranty.

Good luck

laolita

06-17-2006, 04:14 PM

Thanks for the advice - which I may ignore! (I will probably ask myself "Do I feel lucky today?" ;-)

If I get the replacement screen by buying a second TH55 then a blown motherboard is not a disaster. Really I just want to get up and running again asap without data loss.
Unlike the last time the screen is completely white this time and there are no clues to let me do a Clie backup to memory stick, nor a way of backing up the memory stick (though of course I can remove it during repair). I will do a hotsync (I figured out how to trigger that by shorting the pins in my USB charger cable - never got around to installing The Go Go to allow Hotsync on button command) but I just don't trust Hotsync to properly restore my machine to the way it was before... especially as I will be syncing with a secondary PC (first is also awaiting repair).

I am not too worried about orphaned files (though I am sure there are a few)

It would be cute if someone could create a emergency app to allow full backup of the RAM when the screen is dead. e.g. install it through Hotsync and then on the next reset have it automatically step in and do it's stuff.
Come to think of it it may exist already - I used to use pilot-xfer/pilot-link on the P3. I was running with Cygwin components from Windows. If I could get that working with the TH55 (perhaps under Redhat WS3 under VMware which I have on a work machine) then I could make that backup. No way I would send my TH55 off without saving all the data first. (In any case - no offence intended) I should be able to change the screen myself and it will save on postal risks and delays... So far I have been through a Palmpilot Professional, a PIII, PIIIXE (all still operational if I put batteries in) and kept them running several times by changing broken screens - including cannabalizing 2 "2nd hand" IBM Workpads and a probably another PIII, and buying a couple of screens separately.. so I think there is a fairly good chance I am up to the job of doing the repair - the biggest questionmark is my ability to avoid breaking the screen after fixing it ;-).

rldai

07-03-2006, 12:56 AM

Dear DanT,

I've got a digitizer jitter problem as showed below. Is there any way out of this?
Thanks:)
http://www.tompda.com/bbsimgx/0402/tompda_371071_HRCapt20041115093911.jpg

DanT

07-03-2006, 06:04 AM

Known problem if you use wrong screen protector and carry your TH55 without flipcover or case in your pants' pocket. It is called digispokes. We have discussed it thoroughly here (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45669&highlight=digispokes). I gave up carrying my TH55 naked (with just screen protector and in my pants' pocket) and start using a belt case and use Sony crystal-clear screen-protector. It took me 2 years to figure that out. :rolleyes: I feel like Batman by carrying 2 belt cases on the left side for my phone and the right side for my TH55/E1. LOL. :(

Apparently the bending and pressing stress on the glasstop/digitizer while being in the pocket and any dust trap between the screen protector and the glasstop/digitizer can cause such digispokes.

The Sony crystal-clear screen-protector works great. It is so clear that you think you don't have a screen protector until you look carefully on the edge of the glasstop/digitizer. It is expensive, but it worths the price when you start experiencing such digispokes. Another option is the Brando crystal-clear screen protector or Brando washable matte-finished, anti-glare, pencil-on-paper feel screen protector.

rldai

07-03-2006, 08:09 AM

Thanks for the reply batman :D

I removed my lcd protector and the digitizer back to normal :)

Known problem if you use wrong screen protector and carry your TH55 without flipcover or case in your pants' pocket. It is called digispokes. We have discussed it thoroughly here (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45669&highlight=digispokes). I gave up carrying my TH55 naked (with just screen protector and in my pants' pocket) and start using a belt case and use Sony crystal-clear screen-protector. It took me 2 years to figure that out. :rolleyes: I feel like Batman by carrying 2 belt cases on the left side for my phone and the right side for my TH55/E1. LOL. :(

Apparently the bending and pressing stress on the glasstop/digitizer while being in the pocket and any dust trap between the screen protector and the glasstop/digitizer can cause such digispokes.

The Sony crystal-clear screen-protector works great. It is so clear that you think you don't have a screen protector until you look carefully on the edge of the glasstop/digitizer. It is expensive, but it worths the price when you start experiencing such digispokes. Another option is the Brando crystal-clear screen protector or Brando washable matte-finished, anti-glare, pencil-on-paper feel screen protector.

Achtung

07-04-2006, 10:22 AM

I need to get a jog dial assembly, as I damaged mine when I opened my set to fix my camera.

How much does it cost for a used one if you have it.

Please email me off the list.
hefferich@hotmail.com

DanT

07-04-2006, 11:01 AM

Achtung,
Please check my reply in your email.

GodOwnsAnNX80

07-14-2006, 10:29 AM

What will be the cheapest way for me to "upgrade" to bluetooth? It should just be a mobo swap, right? Thanks.

And incidentally, what's the going price for a US TH55 these days?

DanT

07-14-2006, 11:04 AM

What will be the cheapest way for me to "upgrade" to bluetooth? It should just be a mobo swap, right? Thanks.

And incidentally, what's the going price for a US TH55 these days?

Cheapest way is for me to swap motherboard and bluetooth LED. It will cost you $150 including shipping and a copy of TH55/E Installation CD-ROM. Your TH55/U Installation CD-ROM would not work with TH55/E ROM. It will crash TH55/E ROM.

Of course there is a draw back to this kind of modification. The serial number on the back of your TH55/U would not reflect the great stuff you'll have under the hood. You may have a lot of explaining to do when you want to sell it.

The best option for you is exchange. If you have an excellent condition TH55/U, I can exchange it with my excellent condition TH55/E1 for an additional $100 or $150 for my mint condition TH55/E1. i have two of each at this moment.

I've been selling my excellent condition TH55/U for $235. I have 6 of those at this moment.

GodOwnsAnNX80

07-14-2006, 01:31 PM

Perfect Dan, thanks. I'm still waiting on my TH to arrive and then we'll see if I miss the NX80 keyboard too much to keep it. If it's bearable then I'll go for your exchange offer. Thanks.

aftervenice

07-24-2006, 10:31 AM

Hi, I just found you guys this morning because I broke my TH55's digitizer. For a while my camera hasn't worked either. I configured my clie for automatic system lockout and can't even sync now since I can't enter the password.

So, has anybody used a keyboard to enter their password?

Or, DanT, how much would a new digitizer screen and camera cost? I would be mailing it from Italy.

Thanks!

DanT

07-24-2006, 07:00 PM

Sorry to hear about your broken digitizer and camera module. Is the LCD still good or is it also bleeding? That would make a big difference in cost as I got plenty of spare digitizers, but very limited LCDs (2 at the moment).

I sell used parts as new parts are expensive. For example, the new LCD assembly (parts # A6072074A) from Sony DAPC (http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/web/productSearch.do) costs about $250 including the tax, shipping, and handling in USA. Similarly, the new camera module (parts #180554011) would cost about $110. I sell the used parts at 50% of the new parts value. However, I give one-year warranty for the parts and labor if I repair the TH55.

If you just have broken digitizer and camera, I can replace them for $150 including shipping to Italy and one-year warranty. If you have broken LCD, digitizer, and camera, then it will cost you an additional $75. At this point, it is cheaper to just get another used, but in good working condition, TH55 and sell the broken one in eBay.

aftervenice

07-25-2006, 02:25 AM

DanT, the LCD is still working fine. It was a short fall, about a foot, with the face of the clie to the floor. I'll send you a PM.

Oh, and for the keyboard, in my case it won't work because I'd have to install the IR driver on the palm before I can use the keyboard.

BlackJack320

07-25-2006, 10:16 PM

DanT, greeting, do you have any spare Hard button assembly available?
If I would, I hope I can buy one from you as I broke the ribbon connector of my TH55 when I was replacing the battery. I know, there is one good post that warns people being careful on battery replacing. Unfortunately, I saw that post after I damaged my TH55. :(

DanT

07-25-2006, 10:50 PM

Ouch! Sorry to hear that. I've sold several of these parts for the same problem.

The good news is I have one spare. You can have it for $50 including shipping. Just send me a PM and we talk details.

The Mad Dog

07-29-2006, 05:07 PM

Dan, have you got a red Th55 case over? :)

DanT

07-29-2006, 05:12 PM

I sold one (red TH55/J/U) to Xell, as mentioned in this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114666). The other one (red TH55/J/E1) is a keeper. Sorry. I'll let you know if I get another one.

caseyatbt

07-29-2006, 06:21 PM

DanT

07-29-2006, 06:33 PM

I sent Eddy a PM to check them out in Japan. :)

bab1c

08-09-2006, 03:15 PM

Hello,

(excuse me for my poor anglish but i'm french )

Since i've try to look for changing the battery on my TH55 it wont recognize the battery, it's only work with the power connector. When i put my battery there have been flicks on the screen since then the battery won't work (the TH55 says about the power : Puissance : externe, Etat : pleine : Restant 100% )

Can anyone help me (i think i must change the motherboard ?)

DanT

08-09-2006, 05:46 PM

Try to disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard and disconnect the power connector for 5 minutes. This will hard reset the system and erase all data from the RAM. If the motherboard is fine, it will start up normally to the original manufacturer setting. Otherwise, you have a bad motherboard and need replacement.

bab1c

08-10-2006, 02:04 AM

When i use only the battery i can't poweron the pda so after 2-3 minutes i've try to use the power cable connected on the sector and then the pda start with all the data erase (like a hard reset). I think it's the motherboard !
If it is the motherboard how does it cost to me for a change ?
Thanks for the response.

bab1c

08-10-2006, 02:18 AM

I've just phone to Sony france (very good) but they can't tell me how does it cost for changing a motherboard (i must send the clié via DHL=30€ and then they send me a estimation via email).

DanT

08-10-2006, 05:51 AM

If the TH55 starts up with all data erase (like a hard reset) after you connect the power cable, then it seems like you have a dead battery. It does not seem like you have a bad motherboard. Replacing the battery would only cost you $75 with Sony original battery or $50 with Power Runner battery, all including return shipping with registered and insured mail.

If the motherboard is bad, it will cost you another $150 to replace the E1 motherboard. So total cost, including battery replacement and shipping, is $200-$225, depending upon which battery you would like to have. Sony battery is typically add another one hour battery power, according to BatteryTime discharge test.

Let me know how much Sony France would charge you for the repair. Hopefully it is just a bad battery, not bad battery and bad motherboard.

Sony USA will charge a flat fee of $150 for all repair. However, I am not sure if they accept European TH55 and/or will ship the unit to Europe. I also am not sure if they will replace E1 motherboard since it is a European TH55. I do know that they will replace TH55/E1 LCD for the same flat fee of $150 as the LCD for all TH55s are the same.

Good luck and keep us posted!

bab1c

08-10-2006, 06:41 AM

Thank you for the response, i think the battery is goob (test with a tester )

Is there somebody with a TH55/E1 to sold (with a break screen) ?

sonle111

08-17-2006, 04:55 PM

Hi Dan, I need a screw for Hotsync (bottom case) and a screw inside the Memory Stick cover. How much for the 2 screws? + send to Chandler, AZ

DanT

08-17-2006, 07:44 PM

Hi Dan, I need a screw for Hotsync (bottom case) and a screw inside the Memory Stick cover. How much for the 2 screws? + send to Chandler, AZ

$5.00 including S&H. Send me a PM with your shipping address and I'll give you my PayPal ID.

aftervenice

08-19-2006, 01:54 AM

Hi everyone. I would just like to say thanks to DanT for fixing my TH55. He did a great job.

Ciao ciao

DanT

08-21-2006, 10:09 PM

You welcome aftervenice. Thanks for the nice words.

Joel

08-22-2006, 05:18 AM

Nice one, DanT! :)

bab1c

08-30-2006, 12:02 PM

Since the death of my TH55 i've bought a new one, i've got one to sell which have a good screen, good body but the motherboard have a problem (see prev post in this thread).
If someone is interrested i could sell it (before i try via Ebay) for 80€ with shipping.

DanT

08-30-2006, 04:54 PM

bab1c, please check your PM.

XiuXiuXiu

09-07-2006, 10:40 AM

.A few days ago I dropt my poor TH55 in the desert, but it still works well with sands inside.
Today I open it for a clean, but after I close its front cover, it died.
Now I can't start it with the inner battery whlie I can just use the AC power adapter to power it.
Would you please help me?
THX

DanT

09-07-2006, 11:50 AM

It sounds like a bad connector. Open it again and recheck all connectors, especially from the battery to motherboard. Then there are 2 narrow and 1 wide ribbon cables from LCD assembly to the motherboard that may have broken or lose lockpins.

To insure a good connection on those ribbon connectors, make sure the connector pinouts are all the way inside the female connectors slots on the motherboard and lockpins are locked (down for the top pin wide ribbon connector and slide in for the side pin narrow ribbon connector). You can check the locks by slightly pull the ribbon cables out. If any of the ribbon cables is separated by only a slight pull, then you don't have a good connection. Good luck!

If you want me to check it for you, just send me a PM and I'll tell you my address to send your TH55. No labor charge for just checking the connectors, just S&H of $15.

sonle111

09-07-2006, 04:11 PM

I just want to say thank you to DanT for fixing my TH55. He did a great reparing job... beyond what I had expected. Thanks

DanT

09-07-2006, 05:18 PM

I just want to say thank you to DanT for fixing my TH55. He did a great reparing job... beyond what I had expected. Thanks

You welcome. I'm glad to be able to help. Thanks for the nice words.

lee555

09-13-2006, 10:03 AM

OMFG!!!! I was messing around with a homemade AA battery usb charger, and for some reason my TH wouldn't charge with the AA batteries, when I tried charging the TH through the wall socket, it refused to charge!!! Did I just burn up something inside my Clie? Help!!!!!

My Clie still holds about 70% of battery, so it still turns on, everything still works, but it just won't charge, the red LED doesn't turn on.

Here's what I already did to try to fix it, soft reset, hard reset, in-cradle hard reset, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnecting it again. The damn thing still doesn't charge, did I just kill my poor baby?

Help DanT, any workarounds for this problem?

Update: I opened up the unit to look for any melted parts, there doesn't seem to be any, is it possible that I shorted the battery? And will a shorted battery still power a device even if it won't accept a charge?

DanT

09-13-2006, 06:27 PM

Ouch, I think you just burnt up some parts in the motherboard. Sorry to hear that. AA battery can take up to about 1.65 VDC when it is new. 4AA in series will bring up to 6.6 VDC. If you look at the CLIE charger, it is rated for 5.2 VDC.

What you need to do when you build your own 4AA charger, you need to put 1-1.4V diode(s) on the + lead to drop to the voltage down to 5.2-5.6 VDC. Than that should work. I've done it myself.

Assuming it is a TH55/U, you can send it to Sony to replace the motherboard for $150 with 3 month warranty or to me for $100 with 1-year warranty.

lee555

09-13-2006, 11:36 PM

Thanks for the quick reply DanT, I'll see if I can get hold of another TH55 user here to isolate the problem.

So the only possible culprits are the motherboard and the battery?

DanT

09-14-2006, 06:58 AM

Motherboard (MB) only, not the battery. At least that was what I found. I put the MB in a perfectly good working TH55 and same problem occured.

furby

09-15-2006, 06:31 AM

hey Dan,
what do you suggest to fix up a nx80 thats losts touch screen? Its stuck on calibrartion.

salesrep

09-15-2006, 09:31 AM

hey Dan,
what do you suggest to fix up a nx80 thats losts touch screen? Its stuck on calibrartion.
I don't want to speak on behalf of DanT, of course, but perhaps you should replace your touch screen with one from a TH55. . .completely surrounded by the rest of the TH55!! hahahahaha

I'M TEASING! Just couldn't help offering my suggestion on this one! :p

DanT

09-15-2006, 09:45 AM

hey Dan,
what do you suggest to fix up a nx80 thats losts touch screen? Its stuck on calibrartion.

Probably a lose LCD connection. Just open it up, put a Scotch tape on the non-conducting side of the pinout of the ribbon connector to thicken the end and hence improve the contact since that kind of contact is a press on contact via lockpin slider anyway.

If you are not the do-it-yourself kind, just send me a PM for sending the unit over to me to take a look at it. If no parts required, then I won't charge you any thing just the return shipping.

daisym

09-20-2006, 07:21 AM

hi - from what I read in your list of parts, I need to replace the flipcover hinge assembly on my TH55. Do you know of anywhere I can get the parts without spending $55? Any help or suggestions you have would be great.
thanks!

DanT

09-20-2006, 08:32 PM

I have one spare for $20 but there are scratches on the flipcover.

valsione

09-23-2006, 04:05 PM

DanT

09-25-2006, 06:20 PM

DanT,

I really fancy the red case for the TH55, unfortunately they aren't selling any on ebay. I was wondering do you still have a spare case in red, and how much would it cost if I'm to get a facelift for a TH55.

Also while we're at that, is it possible to fix & upgrade( processor and OS wise) a NR70V with 1/8 of it's screen blank ( the thouch screen still works).

The red TH55s are in Japanese only. I coverted 2 of them. One to TH55/U and the other to TH55/E1. Unfortunately the red /U was sold and I plan to keep the red/E1. Sorry.

The "red facelift" would cost the red TH55/J itself. Sometimes you can get lucky and find one in eBay. If you do and win the auction, you can send both of the red and your old black TH55 to me with a return mail cost ($20) and I can swap the cover for you at no charge.

I don't do NR70V either. My guess is it could be due to a loose connector.

Good luck!

DanT

09-26-2006, 03:45 PM

I have a dozen of Tri No.1 screwdriver for sale. Brando charge you $10.00 + $3.00 (from Hong Kong). I can sell it for $10.00 with free shipping any where in the world. I only have a dozen so first come first serve.

foromerm

09-29-2006, 08:18 AM

wat does the red th55 look like

adiaQ

09-29-2006, 09:43 AM

Look at this thread: http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111089

http://www.1src.com/gallery/data/500/2949Red_E1.JPG

ruangwit

10-28-2006, 10:53 AM

Hi all,

Thanks god you've set up spare part center here. I opened my support case with Clie-Link (Sony Europe support center) and no response for 3 weeks so far.

My TH55 front case broke at hinge areas after has been heavily used for > 2 years. It started from a little hairline crack on the right one. I glued it with model-building glue. It doesn't help much. After a few week, it finally chipped off and soon after that, the left one followed the suit. I attached the picture of it with this post.

Unfortunately, that's not all. Earlier this month, my camera also went crazy, not the error message one as in another thread but it's the green picture as mentioned in this thread (http://www.1src.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90053). Pressing the silver frame around camera doesn't help anymore. At the end of that thread, psau3 mentioned something about loose connection in camera module. So, to fix this, do i have to replace the whole camera module or just reattach a cable?

I've never open my TH55 before because I don't have Y-shape screwdriver. The parts I need (or may need) are: front case, Y-shape screwdriver, camera module or cable (whichever I need to change) and a small screw under IR. So, if you still have these parts, could you PM me the price for parts and for shipping it to Germany? Thanks a lot.

Cheers!
RJ

PS. My TH55 is European version (CSK-003/E1). So if your front case has bluetooth LED panel on it, it would be perfect. :)

DanT

10-28-2006, 03:04 PM

ruangwit,
Sorry to hear about your problems. Please check your PM for the parts.

andrewcoffin

11-02-2006, 11:49 AM

Not sure whether it's appropriate to post this here or not, but if you're looking for TH55 parts and accessories, take a look at the classified ad here that I just posted:

http://www.1src.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=800

I absolutely loved the TH55, and my Clie is still in excellent physical and working condition. I collected a large number of accessories for the handheld, both Sony and aftermarket, some of which are brand new.

The TH55 is a great device--I gave up a lot of functionality just so I could eliminate bulk and only carry one device (a Treo).

Anyway, maybe all this stuff can help someone else keep theirs alive...

HiRes

11-02-2006, 02:24 PM

andrewcoffin

11-02-2006, 05:12 PM

There were several companies producing these shortly after the TH55 was released. A great accessory if you're not going to use the plastic flip cover...

I think maybe I got mine from Brando, but I'm not certain.

andrewcoffin

11-02-2006, 05:15 PM

Yep, here they are:

http://shop.brando.com.hk/capgogoforclieth55.php

$8 for the pair. Of course, you could get these, plus all of the other TH55 accessories I have, for a mere $200 more...

DanT

11-02-2006, 10:42 PM

Andrew, please check your PM.

Monkeylove

11-08-2006, 12:20 PM

Anyone know what happened to the cliebattery.com website?

DanT

11-08-2006, 12:27 PM

It becomes http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/clie/, under the mother company, known as Laptops for Less, L-F-L.com (http://store.l-f-l.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi)

Monkeylove

11-08-2006, 06:01 PM

It becomes http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/clie/, under the mother company, known as Laptops for Less, L-F-L.com (http://store.l-f-l.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi)

Thank you. The instructions still link to the old site, but at least I know where the batteries are now. :)

DanT

11-08-2006, 06:34 PM

Thanks for pointing that out. I updated my post #1 and removed the link to it. :)

Keithg

11-12-2006, 09:55 PM

Digitizer... Which ones are compatible with the TH55? From time to time these come up on ebay with dead digitizers. Can you use one for a 760C and just remove the icon area? These seem to be reasonably available and realtively cheap.

KeithG

DanT

11-13-2006, 01:13 AM

No. They are different. TH55 is one of a kind. I used to have N760C and had done some digitizer replacement works for both TH55 and N760C.

Cyker

11-16-2006, 03:29 PM

Eeep! The unthinkable has happened and my TH55's screen is now cracked!!

Hayelp!!

(Sent you a PM Dan :D)

DanT

11-16-2006, 06:35 PM

Got one LCD left in stock.

bookzzz

11-20-2006, 07:49 PM

Help! I just crushed (don't ask me how) the USB connector on my TH55's USB hotsync cable. This USB connector is history. Any idea where I can get a replacement?

DanT

11-20-2006, 08:12 PM

Just send me a PM. Are you referring to Figure 6 in my post#1? If yes, then

Option 1: I can sell you the hard button assembly if you know how to replace it.
Option 2: You send the TH55 to me and I can repair it.

If you are referring to the CLIE-mini USB adapter, I have a couple spares for sale.

DanT

11-21-2006, 03:30 PM

Hi all,

I'm getting out of this TH55 repair business. One rotten apple has spoiled the whole basket so to speak. I've lost my shirt, but still have my pants on though. I do have most parts except for the LCD and still have some warranty services to take care of until this time next year. Once, those spareparts run out, you are on your own. I've edited my post #1 accordingly.

Who knows, there would be something better than TH55 will come out next year. Sony may come up with VIAO thinner than UX180P.

Bye

olderTechnology

11-22-2006, 11:45 AM

Dan,

This is not good! I've never used your services, but I had that good feeling that you would be there when I needed you! Plus, you're in Texas! Should we have a bake sale for you?

I bought an extra TH55 when the digitizer started to "spoke" on my old one, but that was with a screen protector. If the new one gives up someday, I'll go back to the old one without a screen protector. By then, HOPEFULLY, somebody will have a decent replacement device. Not likely though. Possibly StyleTap plus Windows Mobile will be the only way out.

Easter

11-22-2006, 07:53 PM

Unfortunatelly, I can tell that I am this apple, but I can assure to all of you that the service that Dan has been doing should not stop.
He is the savior of the TH world. The only one around.
Please rethink and came back.

Seajhay

11-24-2006, 12:47 AM

purchased my TH55 back long ago. it broke once in NY while i was on the subway. i think it protected me when someone tried shanking me when i wasn't looking. sent it to SONY and head the screen repaired.
grumble grumble on the cost....
then went traveling again a few years later and was at the airport at one of those kiosks trying some cases to see if they would fit with the th55. i had one but told the guy it was too small. he said, "oh it will fit, you just have to press on it!" and before i could stop him, he mashed on the velcro right on the screen. I screamed "NOOOO!" [i really did] and sure enough, the LCD guts were oozing under the digitizer and he said, "oh, it was already cracked."
my word against his and my flight was boarding in a few minutes to i had to leave, but that jerk is still working there a year later.

any hope you might save one more TH55? i really haven't been using it since then because of depression and dismay whenever i look at the screen.

things i would be interested in...
a bag with money in it, preferably large denominations
a cost for replacing LCD [if you still have and are interested]
replacement flip cover [if you have any]
i am in no rush and would eagerly await after the holidays if that is better for you..

~cj

p.s., don't leave. your resources are amazing...