Battery Solution(s)

[mclien]

I will post here my 'successes' about a replacemant Battery
(without Photos so far, because my daughter dropped out DigiCam to death)

I just found a shop (in germany, where I live), which sell rather tiny lithium polymer accus. now I have my second watch with a 380mAh LiPoly Cell, which is slightly thicker tan the original one (adds 2mm, so you cant close the case, but would be possible with longer screws).
IMO two scenarios are possible:
-two 110mAh cells will fit without case modding ( I still belive this will last much longer, than the original one, because I still think all original batteries are damaged, because of non-usage till selling)

-two 110mAh and one 380mAh cells with a custom case (only the 'back-plate'), which makes it 2mm thicker (bulding the case-plate will most likely end up in a mold for it)

[mclien]

replaced orig. battery with the 380mAh cell, case open
usage: try to emulate/duplicate my normal usage of wath #1

first 24h: no diffrence shown in mattery gauge (100%)

didn't minitored it very well, but lasts about 5,5 days with little use

[mclien]

I plan to replace the orig. watch with two 110mAh cells, to fit in original case.
(hope I'll get this working over the weekend)
EDIT1: will wait until new digicam arrives to make a better documentation.

[realyst]

Was looking to do something similar myself. Please keep me posted if it worked for you:)

Also, are you still using PD3032 cells? Or are you using an equivalent?

[realyst]

Also, where do you buy these batteries? I can't seem to find anywhere on google actually selling the PD3032(they talk about it lots though)

I would be willing to buy one of the one of each type of cells off you if you're interested.

As for the backplate, I figure even a thin layer of rubber properly cut and slightly longer screws would do it.

[mclien]

I think next try is to fit 2 of the 110mAh cells in the original case.

These are the cells I use:
http://www.lipopower.de/shop/pages-productinfo/category-2_64_48/product-163/lipo-akkus-suche-nach-c-belastbarkeit-slipp-7c-110ma-einzelzelle-7c.html
http://www.lipopower.de/shop/pages-productinfo/category-2_64_3_5/product-17/lipo-akkus-suche-nach-c-belastbarkeit-slipp-10c-1s-zellen-37v-380ma-einzelzelle-10c.html

Problem to fit a 110 and a 380 is that you have to hold them all sides, wich could be difficult with the rubber method, but nice low budget solution,though.
And I have NO idea at all which sort of thread the screws are (metric, inch, .., difficult to measure..)

sadly I have no camera (broken by my daugter) at the moment todocument the fitting of the 2 small cells :-(

the batteries itself arend that haevy and will fit in a envelope. Where are you (america, england...) costs : 110mAh: 3,30 EUR 380mAh: 3,80 EUR +H&S

[realyst]

very cool indeed.

I'll PM you my address to figure out shipping and pricing.

I'm actually in Canada myself, so the shipping shouldn't be that far different then USA.

Much appreciated. It's amazing how much trouble I had trying to find good batteries to play with. All the french and enlish sites I went to had batteries just a tad short of the PD3032's capacity.

Sorry to hear about your camera^^; Kid-grade electronics must need to follow standards above that of military-grade;P

I'll try a few things on my end once I get cracking and post any images I can.

[mclien]

I tried some things with the 2 small batteries:
I think its possible to fit them in the unmodified case, but this is still difficult an needs some good soldering skills. And I think i'll wait a bit (until I have a new camera) to dokument the thing. You have to bend and cut the soldering lugs in a accurate way and have to solder the second battery pickabach to the first one.
Or are you rather intrested in the extended version (100+380mAh) with the modified backplate.
Or do you just interested in the batteries themselfs, to find a own way?

S&H will be about 4-5 EUR to canada

[realyst]

I was just thinking of both the two low cap cells and the high cap cell to experiment with. But did you actually create a modded backplate?

[mclien]

I work on the modified backplane already (glued a2mm alloy piece to it and filled the rest with synthetic resin filling compound.
next is to shape it in the final form (and perhaps reinforce the screw lugs a bit) and after that I'll take a negative mold from that, and can from then on 'produce' several backplanes.
This will make a 380 and a110 mAh cell in it, so that we have 490mAh alltogether.
Theoretical every additional 2mm will then give us an additional 220mAh (2 110 cells).
But more than 4-5mm extra thickness and more than 710mAh don't make much sense for me...

[realyst]

Wow. That sounds sorta cool:P

In that case, I'll wait a bit and become your first backplate+battery customer^^

If it won't work out, I'll just grab 2 110s and one 380 from ya and try tinkering around myself. I probably wouldn't be able to come up with anything quite as pro as that though.

feel free to email me at realyst [at] real-ism [dot] com

[mclien]

OK, I'll keep you informed. If you get to impatient while waiting, drop me a line (I have family and a job so it will take at least 'some' time).
But I self look forward to not have to charge my watch every day :-)
frank [at] mclien [dot] de
EDIT: just got a used camera via ebay (same model as before), so I'm fully operationally in the middel of next week, I hope.

EDIT: (31.10.06):
short status: Orignal Backplane is moded (with alloy pieces and epoxy glue) and shaped
I'm now waxing the original mold.

[Muttin]

I just thought I would let you all know that I performed an upgrade that I found online at the following URL:

http://hamdomain.com/wrist-pda/index.html

The upgrade went smoothly and my watch still functioned perfectly after finishing. I charged it overnight last night, and now I am logging how the new battery performs with "normal" use. Previous to this upgrade my watch was lasting approximately 24 hours with no use.

[realyst]

that's pretty slick:) I like his piezo disc mod too.

mclien: you got any pics of your mold up? Yours would probably look prettier.

[mclien]

of course mine will look much prettier! :D

Here is the status (bad weekend, but I'm not giving up):

First try of the negative mold was a bad one. Lots of bubbles/sinkholes/blowholes (don't know the exact term). So I made a second try with vacuum pump (to eextract the air out of the epoxy, without giving myself time to adapt new wax (hoping the leftover wax is good enought).
This nearly ruined everything! I now have a 'useable' negative mold and a somehow repairable original mold.
waxing will take me another week (from now on I'll not spare any wax layer...), so I'll possibly end up with the first useable backplane.

pictures: is there any space here on 1src for this? Otherwise I'll have to update my website (which will take more time).
EDIT: I see, I can attach pictures. (Any size limit?)
Will attach it tonight from home.

so long mclien

[realyst]

EDIT: Noticed your edit^^;

[mclien]

This is the original mold in compare with the original backplane:
Just to have an idea of how it'll look
(click to enlarge/ carefull REALLY BIG)
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/9027/comparetotalto3.th.jpg (http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=comparetotalto3.jpg)
Detail view of it:
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2772/comparedetail2tf3.th.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/my.php?image=comparedetail2tf3.jpg)
And finally (for today) the so far best negative mold:
(you can clearly see the stuck material of the original mold in it and some pieces of the wooden splitting plane)
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/1831/negativmoldb2wz2.th.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?image=negativmoldb2wz2.jpg)
Next step iis to try, if its possible to 'repair' the mold and go for the first try of new backplane.
I think I'll perhaps have to 'extend' the mold from a single sided to a closed one with two halfes and injekt the CFK into the mold.
Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting (http://imageshack.us)

[realyst]

awesome!:)

[realyst]

I definitely need to learn how to mold:)

[mclien]

I definitely need to learn how to mold:)
Thats a good idea anyway :-).
For me this wasis a good starting point:
http://www.r-g.de/en/downloads.html

Thats my favorite supplier here in germany. You may find another supplier for you, but the downlaod material is good anyway.
best hint I can give (because I often did it wrong): order minimal amounts. (only thingsyou really need in the next future). Additional postage is always cheaper, than having bad or useless material. :-)

[realyst]

sweet:) definitely worth a try:P I've tried crazier things(with more dangerous consequences).

[realyst]

Just wondering, any progress in your battery mod mold?

Oh, and season's greetings:)

[mclien]

perhaps you are some sort of prophet ;-)
Here ist the status:
First I hade much to do and was ill for some time, but just this weekend i managed to make a little progress. After some bad results in useing the single mold I figured out, that I have to use a closed (2 halfes) mold, for which I have to make a original, which is exact on both sides (the first one was just exact on the outside and had old measurements on the inside).
The piece which will get the new original will be hardened this night. (EST)
to be continued...
(hope I'll have more time after christmas. Sorry fir not haveing it ready as christmas...)
OK this one was a mess! (Problems to get the the fibers in the sarper corners of the mold.
Will try a midificated layer assembly (mainly of the vacuum parts)

[mclien]

After some really bad results, I manged to finish the prototype of the backplane. (had several unusable results, because I wasn't able to get the corners of the mold filled, even with -0.7 bar vacuum).
But here it is!
490mAh battery power, ca.2mm thicker and EXACTLY the same wight as the unmodified one!!
electricle assembly, opened:
[img=http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5203/img6621dw1.th.jpg] (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6621dw1.jpg)
compare original, modified:
[img=http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/32/img6632wl2.th.jpg] (http://img121.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6632wl2.jpg)
[img=http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/6619/img6633nc6.th.jpg] (http://img103.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6633nc6.jpg)

[AzlBigKid]

Hey mclien, now that's what I call a neat mod. I have two Fossils and the battery life on both of them is starting to drop to only a day and a half. So I am very interested in trying out your mod kit idea. Thanks for all the photos and GOOD JOB !

[Razoff]

What about Ipod Shuffle battery? Is it little enough to use it?

[mclien]

OK here ist the currend status:
4 days 13hours: 28% aka 3.75V left :-)))

I think thats good enought and I will start building the closed mold, for easy reproducing ASAP. And I'm in good contact with my battery supplier, who tries to get me 3 more models of LiPolys, which possibly will give us nearly 7 full days of battery power.
The Ipod batteries are sort of same kind, but have connectors/ conntact-pads, which are useles for us and are most likely more expensive.
So I suggest a bit more patience until I'm done this the selecting of batteries an building the mold and I'll come up with a price for the whole set. Best way to do it is to glue the batteries inside the new backplate and have two wires,which are to sold on the pads,from which the original battery ist removed.
Price will be a part of fixed price (my costs for batteries, material + postage) and a freely choosable amount for my work, which I will donate fully to a orphan project in rumania.

And next project is to make a new topcase with CFK, to reduce the wight of the PDA from 88gr to 50gr :-)

EDIT: And thanks for the commendation.
And the backplates will most likely be black.

[mclien]

Just fount a (possible) third source for increasing battery life (beside bigger battery and underclocking):
I noticed, that the internal voltmeter 'thinks' that 3.6V means 'empty', which is a bad joke, because LiPoly cells have a discharging end volatge of 3.0V !!

EDIT:
OK just learned, that so voltage drops very fast after 3.6V. so this is not a way.

[Lordshadowz]

Will you be selling the molds ? My battery life is down to, gasp, 10 hours even if I don't use it LOLOL. I'd like to try your battery mod.

If you have a mold you'll sell me let me know.

lordshadowz@msn.com is the e-mail.

[mclien]

Yes, bacause if te good response, I'm currently planing to make a mold to reproduce the casing 'easyly'. If nothing strange happens, I'll be able to start building the mold this weekend (and perhaps have it finished the weekend after that).
I'll be then back with flops and successes

[realyst]

Haven't checked in for a while but very very nice shots, Mclien!:)

Can't wait til' your finished!

[Razoff]

I have just now replaced original PD3032 battery with Acme Power AP-PD-20 (Ipod Shuffle) battery. 250 mAh, 20x30x4.5 mm. No new backplane is needed. It works. If the anybody want to listen to this story, i'll write about it.

[realyst]

Hey hey! I'm all ears(or is that eyes?) :)

[mclien]

OK, with me: I'm constantly building waterloos :-(
Making the mold just needed time (because of all the pauses for some material to harden). Filling the mold seems tom make me nuts:
First attempt was to just press the epoxy inside the mold with syringe
1th try: only one string carbon fibre an unreinforced epoxy: too much bubbles and epoxy only w/o fibre reinforcement is to weak.(pic1)
2nd try: a pice of carbonfibre and epoxy with short fibreglas (ca. 0.2mm long): even more bubbles/lugs (pic2)
3rd try: one string carbon fibre and epoxy with short carbon fibres (3-5mm long):Can't even press the expoy inside the mold, so I tryed to do it with vacuum. This 'sucked' the epoxy inside the mold, and left the carbonfibre inside the syringe and then 'sucked' air through the dry fibres inside the mold (pic3).

Additionally all results are not as stiff as the prototype (which was made out of several layers of fibreglas-tissue).
So next try is to place one carbon fibre-roving (as in all trys before) an several layers of tissue inside the mold, press it together and then use vacuum ti 'suck' the epoxy inside the mold and tissue. I hope I can minimize the grinding work after that by figuring out the best shape for the tissue pieces I use for that.

mc -nevergiveup- lien
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3193/img0049dc4.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0049dc4.jpg)
http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/4324/img0050te9.th.jpg (http://img53.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0050te9.jpg)
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/4216/img0051sf1.th.jpg (http://img161.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0051sf1.jpg)

[realyst]

You must build airplanes in your spare time. Don't you? :)

[mclien]

nearly, very low flying airplanes: recumbents ;-)
Oh, and I built some kiteboards. Good thing in this situation is, that with the mold ready it's faster to make trys with it (only one day time for harden.
so far a movie quote "I'll be back" ...

[Razoff]

Full description (but only Russian now) is here:
http://wristpda.da.ru/doc/AP-PD-20.zip

Some pictures are attached.

[realyst]

That's pretty impressive. And you say the battery fits within the existing backplate? Pretty nift. Though I think Mclien's mod will allow for longer life due to the higher mAh.

Have you run any benchmarks on how long the battery lasts with that mod?

[Razoff]

1. Yes, the battery fits within the existing backplate.
2. Undoubtly, the higher mAh, the longer life.
3. I have'nt run any benchmarks, but last time I'v charged the battery was Sunday, 16:00 Msk. Now the battery's charge is 54%. 15-30 minutes per day reading, notes, time.

[mclien]

OK, next try:
now know the next step: Don't use vacuum (it just 'sucks' the epoxy out of the mold).
And I have to build a new (upper) half of the mold. It shouldn't be with a layer of silicone/polysiloxane for 2 reasons: you won't get a smooth surface, because of the flexibility and the metal parts,which are placed in the silicone bend inside when there is a pull in the carbonfibere.
So I got a good filling of the mold (no bubbles of air inside the item) bit the holes for the screws lost their position (pic2).
So I need some extra time for the next version of the mold.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/6490/nearly1yy3.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nearly1yy3.jpg)
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/6348/nearly2eb3.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nearly2eb3.jpg)
so long

[Razoff]

Fossil has worked 6 days after first charge. I mean AP-PD-20 battery.

[realyst]

Fossil has worked 6 days after first charge. I mean AP-PD-20 battery.


That's pretty cool:)

Definitely better then my current "30 mins of use if I'm lucky";)

[mclien]

Fossil has worked 6 days after first charge. I mean AP-PD-20 battery.
How much use per day?
Watch face on/off?

And :
my new mold is working. As soon as my battery supplier has got the batteries in stock again I'll start shipping the molds.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5795/img0031ll7.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0031ll7.jpg)

[realyst]

niiiice:)

Looks pretty nifty too:P

[mclien]

Thanks.
This Version is with glassfibre and a single carbonfibre, which sourrounds the screw holes (the only way to make these things stable enough). And I used the clear epoxy to see, if erverything works well.
Most likely I will just use black colour paste to make it black (if you like it without colour, to see the technology I do it that way of course). OK perhabs I'll try some special glassfibre which is aliminium clad (but perhaps this tissue is to rigid to fit the mold).
I'll post, when the modding kids are ready.

[mclien]

Have you run any benchmarks on how long the battery lasts with that mod?
Are there 'real' benchmarks for this (to exclude different ways and times of use), to have objective results?

[Razoff]

How much use per day?
Watch face on/off?

15-30 minutes per day reading, sometimes notes, time, addressbook.
Watch face off. IRDA receive off. 1 min off timeout.

The second week is over. 7 days from one charge.

[mclien]

15-30 minutes per day reading, sometimes notes, time, addressbook.
Watch face off. IRDA receive off. 1 min off timeout.

The second week is over. 7 days from one charge.

Oh forgot one more (also significant difference):
Alarmsound: on/off?, if on how many alarms a day

so long Frank

[Razoff]

Oh forgot one more (also significant difference):
Alarmsound: on/off?, if on how many alarms a day

so long Frank
Alarmsound off. And other sounds too. They are too silent and ridiculous. I don't use any fossil's sound.

[mclien]

My battery supplier says he gets the new accus in about 2 weeks. And he has by then some samples of the other types (which perhaps expand the total capacity to 630 mAh).
About the design of the backplanes: simple black? or as in the pictures? sort of clear with the carbonfibre visible?
I will produce some backplanes in advance, to be quicker when I get the accus.

so long mclien

[realyst]

I'm partial to black. Though either way would be cool.

[mclien]

Tested Razoffs configuration a while (Watch Face off, beam receive off, all sounds off): after 48 hours 4.13V 100% ! (P4P Akku Test v1.4)
To improve the sound (at least a bit), do the following:
downloading Geeksounds.prc from FreewarePalm.com and, in DateBook, using 'M100 Warbler' as the default sound.

[mclien]

I'm partial to black.
for sure? :-)
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4497/img0046da0.th.jpg (http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0046da0.jpg)

[realyst]

for sure? :-)
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4497/img0046da0.th.jpg (http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0046da0.jpg)


Actually, that is pretty sexy:P

[mclien]

So you want that one?
(I'm currently producing the plates in advance to have them quickly completed, when the batteries are deliverable.)

[T-Man]

Your case-mod looks rather good. I don't know if I can buy one right now, but what would be your willingness to ship to the USA, mclien ?

[markwolk]

mclien, you have done a great job! I have been watching this forum for some time, since I own 5 Abacuses and 2 Fossils. I joined today to let you know that I would definitely like to order a few of your plates / battery kits. I will be one of the first to order once it is possible.

The Abacus is now my only PDA, replacing my very old (11 years!) Sharp Zaurus. I have transferred all my 2,500 addresses into the Abacus.

[realyst]

Yup, he's definitely got me as a customer as well:P

Sorry for the delay in response, again, the subscription service on this board forgets to notify me so I hafta remind myself to come check:P

Yeah, the silver one is cool:)

[mclien]

much thanks for all the commendations.

sadly we have to be patient for some more time: My battery supplier just informed me, that his asian deliverer 'expanded' the shipping of the batteries for another 2 weeks minimum.

I hopefully will have some new examples for a bit extra capacity. I'll come up with news ASAP by then. Meanwhile you can all submit me you colour wishes. (I produce plates in advance)

EDIT:
and yes, I'll ship worldwide, of course

[mclien]

.... I own 5 Abacuses and 2 Fossils. ..
So you can solve one very important question:
Have the abacus and the fossil the identical backplane and hardware inside?
Means can you put the fossil backplate to the abacus and vice versa?
If so, it means my 'battery extension kit will work for both...

[markwolk]

The back plates of Fossil and Abacus have an identical size as far as I can see. I measured the spacing between the screws. See picture.

I'm not sure what you mean by "backplane". Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backplane) and other sources seem to think it is a circuit board. I must admit I don't have the tools to open the back plate and see the circuit board; but if that's you want me to do, I can try? - Alternatively, I can send you a Fossil for testing if you wish.

[mclien]

Maybe the confusion is just because I'm not a native english speaker/writer and often mix up backplane and backplate....

But from the pictures I'm very shure both watches ar identical inside, so my replacement kits should work for both.
For the futur you have to open it anyway to use my replacement kits. Can you do that (maybe with a little help of a firend)? Alternatively, you can send me 'all' the watches you want to have modified. In this case, pleas let me know the wight of the package in advance, so I can find out about shippping cost from germany to you.
So long mclien

[markwolk]

Great, thanks for the offer. I sent you a PM about it. I am not a native English speaker either, so I had to lookup the meaning of "backplane"...

[mclien]

Sorry for the long silence, here is the update.
I tryed some things with the new battery types:
-no way to get more capacity without haeve modifications on the circuit board
-so here are some ideas, pleas vote
1. as is, easy to implement (490mAh totally capacity, with new backeplate, proofed)
2. same backplate, heavy mods on the board, possibly 650mAh (new sound device, one inductor to place elsewhere, much testing and prototyping)
3. same backplate, 380mAh, vibra arlam ( some prototyping and testing)
4. new backplane, 490 mAh, vibra arlam (MUCH prototyping and mold building, much testing)
5. new backplane, possibly 650mAh, vibra arlam (operating expense: add 2 and 4 ;-))

Just vote for the 'most wanted'

mclien

[markwolk]

1. is my vote, but I would need to know how many mAh does the original battery have to say whether it is worth investigating 3. which also looks interesting.

[T-Man]

I'll vote 1 also.

[AzlBigKid]

I vote for option 1 too. I have done a bit of PDA modding over the years and often choose the simple option that brings benefit because of the risk of making a mess of the machine with a complicated mod.

great stuff mclien

[mclien]

but I would need to know how many mAh does the original battery have to 3. which also looks interesting.
orignal 160/190 mAh, not sure about it, but most of the batteries are additinally damaged, because of to long time unchared in stock.
for the vibra alarm: What about to test it on one of your abcaus watches?

[mclien]

OK here we go:
Just got the first black one out of the mold. I works.
So here are my offers:
30 EUR for selfbuilders, 35 EUR for build in service (shipping depends on locatoin of buyer, who pays shipping) I'll allways try to make the shipping as cheap as possible (example 4-8 EUR air mail to USA/Canada).
Colour/ design:
uni black or silver tissue like mentioned/shown above.
Just send me an PM with your order.

Remember to backup your data!! (they will be lost for sure of course!)

mclien

[markwolk]

Sent you a PM.

[Feo]

Hello,
I am also VERY interested on this. How would I pay? can you take PayPal?

[mclien]

Yes paypal should work. Even though they will charge me 3.4%+0.35EUR for the transfer, it'll be the cheapest way.
Postage worldwide for the battery pack only will be 4 EUR. (Up to 100gr weight)
And 8 EUR for a watch ( 101 to 500 gr.)..
Inside europe and germny will be cheaper.
PM is a goodidea anyway.

so long mclien

[visavo]

I tried to install the ipod shuffle battery but run into problems.. I got my brand new fossil yesterday and tried to change the battery right away.. I was removing the old battery when I accidentally ripped off the battery connector from the mainboard of my Fossil and all traces with it.. I tried to recover the situation and solder some wires to spots where I thought that the minus wire should go.. I just burned the mainboard PCB and I thought it was all over.. until I tried to connect the minus wire to the metal case and IT WORKED! I don't know if there are any problems now, I haven't found any..but I was very desperate just an hour before..be careful

I tried the shuffle battery again but it still doesnt't work. With the original battery everything seems normal but the shuffle battery is not working..and both are charged..and the shuffle battery is too thick..the backplate is hard to put back, I was afraid to tighten the screws, it is so thight.

[mclien]

As long as it works again, I can offer you the following:
-one of my backplates without any battery
-the complete back (back plate and batteries)
-send me the watch and I'll install my battery kit for you

I haven't any experience with the IPod batteries. But I often read about the difficult inserting. How have you loaded/tested the IPod battery?

[Razoff]

I tried the shuffle battery again but it still doesnt't work. With the original battery everything seems normal but the shuffle battery is not working..and both are charged..and the shuffle battery is too thick..the backplate is hard to put back, I was afraid to tighten the screws, it is so thight.

1) Shuffle battery may be discharged. Or damaged. Check its voltage, it must be about 3.9-4,1 V to work.
2) Shuffle battery must be placed exactly as in http://wristpda.da.ru/doc/AP-PD-20.zip

[visavo]

I tried it again..It was just that the voltage of battery was too low. I installed the ipod shuffle battery, and charged it for a couple of hours..it works great, it's still almost full after 24 hours.

It works great, I just soldered the positive lead to the mainboard of the wrist pda and left a little bit of bare wire from the negative side of battery and when I put the backplate back again, it makes contact with the bare wire and everything seems to work, I'm so glad it works after I nearly lost it :) And altough it was tight fit but nothing too serious, the battery just has to be in right position and everything fits nicely.

[mclien]

BAD DAY :-(
The battery producer thinks 6.2mm are equal to 6.8 mm (thickness). So non of my backplates fit anymore, because ALL(!) batteries of the new delivery are to thick and I have to rebuild the form.
Two options left:
1. wait for the new backplates
2. get the old once with a bit smaller capacity: 410 instead of 490 mAh

so long mclien

[realyst]

I'd live with 410. Still better then what I got:P

[markwolk]

Me too; I'd live with the smaller battery, as long as it lasts longer than 36 hours standby.

[mclien]

the 490mAh lasts about 5-6 days (for me),
so the (then) 410mAh should be good for about 4.5 days.

[mclien]

Did some modding last week.
I now have a prototype, which is slightly thicker (0.5mm) than the first one, and has a less thickness of the material (which doesn't matter, because it's "stuffed" with batteries anyway). perhaps it'll become a bit transperent.

There the 380ma AND the 270mAh PiPoly battery fits inside.
Yes that means 650mAh !

I'll try to get a new mold done ASAP.

so long mclien

[millydog]

Hi Mclein,
I have just read through this entire thread. I am very interested in your backplate and batteries combo. So, the new one will have 650mAh....wow!

Now, I am getting a Fossil PDA watch for my birthday. How easy is it to install myself so as I do not have to send my new watch all the way over to you (I am in Australia)? I haven't soldiered before but my husband has done it a few times but is not confident to do it on my new watch when I get it. So, will you provide detailed 'How to' instructions?

BTW, well done on creating the backplates...they look amazing. Will there be a colour option?
I would go for 650mAh, being only ever so slightly thicker, if it is no harder to install with multiple batteries.

Jodi

[realyst]

mclien, I just got your backplane in the mail a few days ago and I must say:

this is purely awesome:)

My watch now lasts longer then my Razr phone does:D

I even -tried- burning the battery now by playing a cpu intensive arkanoid game with the backlight on for 20 mins. Not even one drop in the battery status(for the first 5 mins, it still thought it was being recharged:P ). That and the backplane is molded in such a way that it looks completely normal when screwed onto the watch.

For anyone else thinking of getting a backplane from mclien, take it from a satisfied customer, it's damned worth it:)

[realyst]

I do have one question though for anyone capable:

The original battery in the Abacus was a li-ion correct? So the watch would surely have a smart charger in that case? So I should be able to charge it overnight even if the battery meter shows full without issue?

I can't imagine a li-ion based device not having a smart charger(seeing as the two things to definitely kill a li-ion cell are over charged and over drained), but unlike other devices, there appears to be no visual indication of the charger actually stopping current.

[mclien]

From everything I know about the LiPoly tpye akkus is this:
As long as your charger/USB Port proviedes a low enough max. power (which will work with my mod, because the smaller LiPoly of my mod ist only slightly smaller in capacity), it can't be overloaded. The inner resistence of the cell will go up while charging and there for less current will 'flow' to the battery and at the end of the charging process the current will have the amount that will prevent the self-discharging.
(Hope I get it right and nithing was eaten by my non native english :-))

[mclien]

OK after a long time beeing upsent, here comes the news:

working version : 650mAh (2.5- 3 mm thiker)
in process: 410mAh version (0.5 to 1 mm thicker, hopefully)

To the overloading problem:
I have one watch here wich 'kills' the LiPoly cells. Found one part on the mother board, that looks like it 'exploded' (will attach fotos, when I made them)
I have only one Idea for what happens: the source for the charging currend must be to high (can't say if it came from USB port or extra/external charger)

[realyst]

Well, for what it's worth, mine's still going strong. Haven't had any issues nor has the power consumption gone up in any significant way since.

[Protocol7]

I didn't think anyone else browsed this forum.

RockPDX, I have recently also bought an iPod shuffle battery. This one, to be exact:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKUKWU

It is slated to arrive tomorrow and I will tell you how it goes. I could not find the AP-PD-20 as listed in the Russian iPod shuffle replacement, so I bought the cheapest I could.

[rockpdx]

The packaging on it is different than mine, the tag taped to the battery is different, but otherwise it looks identical. I suppose it should since they are both ipod shuffle batteries.

I played with mine a little bit more, i think i can get it to fit with just a little more pressure. I was afraid to at first because i figured those exposed contacts might short against the coverplate. A piece of electrical tape might be enough, i have to play with it some more. There's very little space to spare, so it needs to be ultra thin but it also needs to be strong enough so the contacts won't eventually wear through and touch the metal plate.

Yes, would be great to hear how you do, i'll post any details here too.

[Protocol7]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/SorrowSpear/0318001614.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/SorrowSpear/0318001615.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/SorrowSpear/0318001618.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/SorrowSpear/0318001619.jpg

It's a tight fit - but the battery is in. A few solder burns and the silly terminals are so close together, I short circuited it twice haha.

[rockpdx]

Mine looks pretty much the same, still about half charged after almost two days of use.. Thanks for posting. FYI the link i left for the battery, a little cheaper and it's 300ma instead of 260 i think yours has. Better deal, but then again it's probably a little smaller so easier to get in..

[Protocol7]

I personally don't care so much about the mAh; I'm more particular over having a working battery, haha. My old PD3032 only ran battery for ~20 minutes and when the watch drew high amounts of power, it didn't last a minute.

The extra ~80mAh are only a benefit, plus the new battery was cheaper.

[rockpdx]

I like it, thanks for posting.. My old battery lasted mabye 5 minutes.. Now it's three days later on a single charge..

For the record, if anyone needs the info, i did get the case on. It's a tight fit, but works fine, make sure you insulate the exposed battery contacts from the case, i used two layers of electrical tape. If you short it out, you should be able to revive it by plugging in a powered usb cable, a soft reset might do it too.

Rob Trujillo
RockPDX live music videos
http://go.to/RockPDX