raspabalsa, junglemike, et al. Add'l batteries

[Clocker]

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/436/cimg7267px1.jpg

When T3 is extended there's a hollow part under the buttons. Have you ever tried putting some cylindrical li-ions in there?

[Tam Hanna]

Hi, good idea actually. Was thinking of this myself before. However, are you sure that you want to sacrifice compactability?

Why not use a nice external, NiMH powered circuit with USB plug and stepdown converter?

[BuRnN]

Why not use a nice external, NiMH powered circuit with USB plug and stepdown converter?

i see lots of good ''how-to make your own charger'' But in my case i dont have electrical knowledge to read a tech sheet do you know a good one

yesterday i buy a 4 pack batt holder and i have a old car charger ( car plug with USB port) and i have a old usb card for pc to take part from . even if i dont any knowledge about electric device i know that the car charger need 12volts to make it work and with the 4 batts is 4X1.5 giving me 12 volts (if is the case because i not shure it its calculate that way) when i put the right wired to the + and - the palm start to charges but not as fast as it was pluged in the car

[Tam Hanna]

Hi,
oops! First of all, that battery thingy wont work. 4 times 1.5 is six and not 12, so its a wonder that this even works(itll have a low efficiency though).

The problem witrh batteries is that their voltage varies as they get emptier and emptier.

Quick question: can you solder? If yes, I could try and "wank" together a good, reliable circuit for you blindly - I am away from all my electronics stuff for the next three weeks!

[BuRnN]

thanks it will me apreciat and i dont know how i calculate the 4x1.5 to get 12 volts lol :D

[Tam Hanna]

The question is once again: can you solder?

[Clocker]

Hi, good idea actually. Was thinking of this myself before. However, are you sure that you want to sacrifice compactability?

Why not use a nice external, NiMH powered circuit with USB plug and stepdown converter?


Actually I already have a power-to-go sled but I don't carry it everyday cuz it's too bulky I want a totally internal solution....

I'd have to give up compact mode though, it's so much easier to "thumb" the screen in compact mode like in LJP for ex...

[BuRnN]

The question is once again: can you solder?

of course i know how to solder ,i just repaire my T|E power button that feld out from the board :D

[Tam Hanna]

Hi,
hmmm...gotta think a bit!

[raspabalsa]

I thought about using that empty space for extra batteries (and IIRC Junglemike also considered that), but as Tam said above it would mean the T3 would always be open, and the compact factor is one of the things I like most about my T3. Besides, the hollow is smaller than it seems, with the UC and the buttons panel there is room for maybe just two AAA-sized batteries, so you don't gain that much power to compensate the loss of the slider action.
I want a totally internal solution....
I wanted that too, but there's simply not enough room in the T3 to accomodate much more battery power, unless you want to massively modify the case. One thing I considered was increasing the thickness of the T3's case so the extra Li-Ions could fit inside. But then there would be the problem of modifying the slider and keeping its smooth action. This seemed too much of a trouble, so I gave up on this idea, and instead settled on the external Li-Ions attached to the back of the case. They are hardly noticeable on my Bellagio leather case. Junglemike published some pics of his T3 with external Li-Ions on a metal case, and the mod looks fine too. Maybe you can try one of these options, Clocker.

[Tam Hanna]

Hi,
I just wanted to tel you that I have a basic idea for an ultra cheap(not a single dedicated IC, all discrete and one opamp) and very effective circuit. I have a pDraft file of it and want some feedback - email me at Tamog AT gmx POINT at please!

[Tam Hanna]

Ah, the circuit basically is a "charge pump" thingy with a capacitor and a switch(transistor, I dont understand FETs). The opamp checks if the voltage is still ok on the C where the palm hangs, if not, it opens the switch fully. IF the voltage is too high, it closes the switch...ad infinituum.

This way, you save the buck converter/coil(expensive, hard to get) and still just loose the voltage drop on the switch and the opamps(and references) internal "munch" which is next to zero.

[BuRnN]

sorry tam dont anderstand a thing :D

[Tam Hanna]

Hi,
it'll get documented soon. I already have a second one worming witrh me on this one...we may even do FET's...